Had my 09 Blade a week now and it's fantastic. Second hand R77 arrived in the post so I fitted it today. All seemed to go on ok, OE exhaust came off without too much difficulty considering it's done 14000 and never been off before. Started the bike ok....took a bit longer than normal to turn over. Yellow warning light on dash started flashing at me and it seemed to be idling high (2500 revs). Thinking it was the oil pressure warning light I chickened out after 2 mins and turned it off.....to be met with a tonne of exhaust smoke. I now know the yellow warning light is the FI light, is this just because I've disconnected the cables? So I need one of those servo buddy jobbies? High idle is because the O2 sensor is trying to figure out the new exhaust and would settle if I'd given it long enough? Yoshi instructions say smoke is normal on a new one, I'm guessing that's still the case for a second hand one? Thanks all for any reassurance or pointers.
I brought a second hand one. Had similar issue. Buy a power commander it comes with an O2 sensor eliminator and will fix all your problems. Mine runs fine now. I didn't buy anything for the servo motor just removed cables
When you removed the exhaust servo cable, did you make sure you manually turned the servo motor pulley back to the position it was in (as you have to manually turn it to release the cable)? If not, that will cause the FI light to come on, and you'll need to reset the fault code to get rid of it - a dealer will do this with a particular tool, but there is a hack way of doing this too if you want to do it yourself. Without resorting to a Power Commander and O2 Eliminator, the normal O2 sensor should work with the R77, but the bike might not fuel quite right without a PCV. I also had idling issues with the R77 I had (both with and without a PCV) which were vastly improved when the baffle was fitted. If retaining the original O2 sensor, I'd recommend (what I was told was an) ECU reset when fitting a new pipe - disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for 10 minutes; reconnect; start engine and allow to idle, not touching the throttle, until the bike temp reaches 102c and the fans cut in; turn the bike off, and you're done. Smoke seems odd for a 2nd hand exhaust, unless the previous owner had cleaned it up with some WD40 or similar before selling on to you which then got a bit hot after the first run! Probably all it is.
Mate, you genius......no i didn't! Turned the pulley, removed cable, and then replaced the cover without turning the pulley back again. D'oh. I heard it whirring when i first put the key back in the ignition and thought that was unusual......but didn't put 2 + 2 together. I've read about the reset method via shorting a couple of wires under the seat.....but bike is going to the dealer on Friday anyway so I'll let them do that. I'll try the ECU reset tonight, and see if the idle settles down.....loathed to put the baffle in now it sounds so good (shallow, but i like it loud). Agree re smoke, as I also gave it a good clean with WD40 plus used lots of anti seize grease so its probably all that warming up for the first time.
I've put my Yoshi on and have no issues, i have put the standard o2 sensor in there and its fine but i do have a PCV to fit and a sensor plug. Do i have to change the map on the PCV if i de-o2 the exhaust and also what are the benefits of me removing the o2 sensor if its running fine with it fitted? I don't mean to hijack your thread pal but the answers may help a few of. Thanks.
The idea of the o2 eliminator is to allow the PCV or bazzaz etc to adjust fuelling to the required parameter for an ideal air fuel ratio of 13:1 (or whatever is the ideal figure) the o2 sensor and standard ecu will keep trying to lean it out for emissions and where the bike is running an open pipe like the R77, the mixture will probably be lean anyway due to the lack of back pressure etc. I'm no authority on this BTW, it's just what I have gleaned from places like this forum.
That makes perfect sense, I shall now be fitting my eliminator at the same time as my PCV. Thanks exuptoy.
So checked the flashing fi light, and deciphered code 34 which I believe is the exhaust servo....so I can get that reset. Did the ecu resent and ran it up to 102', and it's certainly running better.....plus all smoke was gone after 30 seconds. Still a bit lumpy so once it had cooled down, thought I'd give the baffle a go. How the hell does the baffle work??! It has a small grub screw plus washer in it, a separate hex bolt, plus a hole in the side of the can with a rubber grommet. Removed the grommet but the hole doesn't go all the way through to the can, does that bit need tapping out? Does the can need taking off to fit the baffle? How do I screw the hex bolt in through that hole without dropping it inside? Thanks all.
Maybe the inside bit hasn't been punched all the way through. Can you see the hole from inside the tailpipe? Swap the hex bolt for a cap head and use an allen key. Can be fitted while on the bike but if you drop the screw or the grommet inside then it's exhaust off time!!! IIRC the hole where the servo cables sat was pointing towards the rear of the seat unit. Try and set the servo to this point and then switch back on the ignition, it may just work. You may not need the fault code clearing then. My reckoning is when I have had the airbox off mine and I switched on the ignition and started the bike I had an Fi light. When I reconnected the airbox cables the Fi light had gone off. (This may have been on my Gixer 1000 not my Blade tho, I can't remember).
Ha ha I wondered the same, mine had the baffle in when I fitted it, I decided to take it out, I unscrewed the screw and immediately lost it in the exhaust. Nightmare.
It only sits in the end cap though so not a biggie. I managed to push the grommet into mine AFTER I successfully fitted the baffle!!!!
IIRC, the grub screw attaches the collar (with the Yoshi logo/writing on) to the baffle, and then within that there is the thread that you screw the hex bolt in to through the can. If the baffle hasn't been used before, then the metal may need to be punched out of the can where it lines up - it should be pre-marked so relatively easy and harmless to do with a bit of gentle persuasion. As for not dropping the hex bolt inside the can, take an allen key and put a bit of blu tack on the end of it, and stick the hex bolt on the end; then carefully line it all up and wind the bolt in. Aligning the thread on the baffle collar with the hole in the can is easier said than done - I found that a smaller allen key through the hole in the can wiggled about helps to align the thread in the baffle collar before you attempt putting the bolt in. Good luck!
And yes, MUCH easier to do with the can off the bike than on! Not impossible mind - my above technique worked a few times
Mate, thanks very much. Twisted the servo back to the top, key back in and no more FI error light. I thought it stayed on until it was reset, but obviously not.
