Bought a wireless N-150 WAP It states in the manual to note down my PC's TCP/IP config settings and then change em to a static 192.168.0.210 and a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0 How the Fek do I do this and why is it necessary to set up a WAP It says when this is done to then open a browser window and go to http://192.168.0.100 to then configure my WAP Obviously I've tried this without doing the first bit and it's unavailable! feckin hate IT with a vengance!
Have a look on here It does depend on which version of Windows you are using, but that should get you started. You have bought a very powerful device, with lots of options you can change - Netgear seem to like giving people lots of options. Guess it depends on what you are trying to use the WAP for.
I have wired CAT 5E and CAT 6 throughout the house but in Summer the Wireless is a bit flacky on the rear Patio where I consume the Red and feck about on here wit the iPad. Being as I have a wired CAT 5E outlet in the Kids playroom adjacent to the Patio I thought plugging this in will boost the signal and I can then plug the Kids TV Internet connection in the back of the Netgear instead
That sounds cool. You could try just plugging it in, switching it on and seeing if it works as standard - or have you already had a go at this? But if you want to change anything then you will need to follow the instructions.
I've had it plugged in to the back of my main Pewter but not tried it at a remote ethernet outlet from my mini Plant room where all things 'Electrickery' emminate from!
For someone who does not like IT stuff, that's a serious amount of technology in a house, wish mine had 1/2 of that Lots of possibilities tho, not least moving the router to the place you want to move the WAP. Is it a Homehub 4 or 5? And is it ADSL or Infinity?
We're in the Country so no Fibre! Aint a clue what the BT Home Hub is but it's only 4 weeks old so assume it's a 5 then? Was on BT Business Broadband for 13 years prior, only swapped on to the Domestic to get BT Sport. I put CAT6 points in in most rooms to transmit HD around the Gaff but that seems to have fell by the way side now. Everything in that Pic is on the top floor of a 3 storey house so need a boost at ground floor level.
hmm - Think you must need to set the IP address on your PC to static and maybe even connect to router with a cable first - then when you open browser to the second address it should let you configure the Wireless Access Point. The other option is a simple / basic signal booster for about £50 to get the wireless downstairs. As others have said - impressive amount of equipment / cabling but for a sparky the cable management needs some TLC! If you put the router on the middle floor via your CAT5 / 6 cabling would it cover entire house?
Ah OK, in many ways we are in similar properties, I too am in a three story place, but next doo to my nearest exchange, so 80Mbps Infinity is very nice.. But having that in the top floor should mean the WiFi signal is good everywhere, unless you have very thick stone walls. Alas you may have made a backward move - depending on when you got your original broadband. The old BT Business Broadband 2 Wire routers were so much better and more reliable than the ones supplied these days. Rather the the Netgear WAP, a decent router may have helped the WiFi signal, not been impressed with the Homehub 4/5's so far. But not worked out if its them, my laptop, or wifi printer that's the problem!
Sinewave, The bt hubs issue ip addresses in a different range from that of your new netgear device by default which is why your getting the issue logging into 192.168.0.100 from a browser. The bt hub by default provides connected computers ip in the subnet range of 192.168.1.1-192.168.1.253 (routers ip is 192.168.1.254) Netgear products default to subnet range 192.168.0.1-192.168.0.254 (device ip depends on device) Computers can't comunicate directly with other computers of devices on different subnets (ie 192.168.0.x cant talk to 192.168.1.x) hence why the manual is instructing you to manually set your computers ip to something inside the netgear devices range so it can comunicate with your computer. Once you change your computers IP to something in the desired 192.160.0.x range you will then get access to the netgear WAP device to set it up with any desired wifi access passwords or wifi broadcast name to whatever you like as per the instruction booklet. Your idea of putting the AP in the back room where the signal currently drops out should boost your wifi signal strength to the whole ground floor but obviously it will be stronger the closer you get to the AP device. I have multiple wifi access points setup throughout the home all setup with the same credentials such as bssid and passwords which allows me to walk from one side of the house out in to the back garden and the device automatically switches to the strongest AP without interrupting what I am doing on the Internet! Good luck Give us a shout if you need any more help getting things setup.
BT HH is ok until you want to do something sensible like port forwarding etc. My BT HH4 has a range like 192.168.1.1 - 192.168.1.100 for DHCP and 192.168.1.101 - 192.168.1.254 for static IP so check how your AP IP is configured not that it should matter but I'd set it static to start off with so you know where it is. Like SSU says if you setup the same WiFi SSID and PW you can roam from zone to zone, if you want it to work well then set one of them on chan 1 another on chan 6 and another on chan 11 the between channels share radio space so are in fact not full bandwidth if you like. I have a few sites that I setup one of mine is on at our 12 acre yard where I have two big DVRs and three networks plus WiFi on the whole site with four WRT54Gs running DD WRT the firmware lets you boost the output from 50mW to a whooping 250mW that with foot long 10dB antennas and some space between then it's easy to have WiFi half a mile away! Also one of them runs in bridge mode so I have the wired network at half bandwidth running in another building where it would be hard to get it wired, I could add more AP or WRT54G running as AP to boost it more, but I think it's enough...lol The BT HH does not do as it should at my other location, the port-forwarding is setup and shares IP info with DYNDNS but still has issues, tbh I'd say the BT HHS are shit as I have another that works, same setting same info but only half working talking to BT is a joke. Oh the chan info is for 2ghz also my HH was dropping out often so I set it so 2 and 5ghz have there own SSID then set any 5 ghz devices to use that the HH is know for dropping out but BT seem to say otherwise also many have said the 5ghz is flakey too...
Cheers guys, changed the static and then got in to the Netgears settings. Wasn't too sure which security protocol to use so just went with the first one in the drop down list which was 'Shared Key' '64 Bit encryiption' What's all the WPA2 shyte etc etc below entail? .............oh and yes the wiring in my 'mini plant room' is unfinished yet as I have Alarm cables and a ruck of CCTV etc to sort out yet The worst offenders are the PF100 TV Cabling on the right which needs tidying up now we recently had SKY fitted as well. The Labgear AV centre screwed to the wall in the pic enables all the feeds from the Freeview/DAB/FM and both SAT feeds to be piped round the whole house to all 10 TV outputs A few more pics which also show the Daikin ASHP system which heats our house, there is a Twin Fan Condensing unit located outside also.
Just tested it and it says that the Wireless Password is wrong when it isn't?? Is that something to do with the generated ASCI characters it threw up over 4 separate lines when I chose the password? What do I do with these then?
My guess is that if it filled in 4 lines of ASCII characters, then its glitched. Go back default it and start again. Set it up for WPA2 PSK, the bottom line is, who are your trying to prevent access to? Don't make it harder than you need to. (WPA is just the security protocol for wireless transmission) My missus goes mad, as I invoke 16 bit pwd's and MAC access lists, and an ASA5505 filtering out lots of sh*te. TBH I don't even know who I am protecting myself from anymore, especially as most of my neighbours wifi setups are open. Bottom line is that it saves me a lot of time going forward, but gives grief to casual users around the house, as in they cannot connect to my wifi, so stops people (ie kids coming in and downloading shi*e). And yes HH's are cheap bottom end routers, but if you stick them behind something decent they work OK for most peeps.
Have a look through the box and see if you can find a WPS key. If you can then just press the WPS key on the router and connection should be simple. <geek mode> As for upsetting the wife, well I currently have 4 wifi routers in the house: 1 for kids; 1 for me and wif; 1 for security cameras; and the main adsl which has a 248 subnet so next to no-one can connect 3 of the wifis are on seperate subnets and route though a Cisco router and an old PIX501 before they hit the ADSL Really must get the cat 6 terminated in the rooms and patched into the router. Best bit is that all the wifi are also mac addressed locked AND the DHCP scope is hard coded between IP and MAC address, so I am the only one who can give people wifi access in our house Must take a picture of my cabinet later </geek mode>
