Here we go with the first question! How do you bypass the side stand switch without the FI light showing on the clocks?? I have an 07 model fireblade and the side stand and switch have been removed so the bike will start but as I select the gear it will stop. So I have tried to bypass the switch from the wiring, black connector, bridging the 2 wires. Now the bike goes in gear without stopping but the FI light stays on ! Is there another way to do it?
Done this recently on mine - 2011. We ended up cutting the cable and joining the wires... It's a closed loop system (i think) so by doing that the system thinks the side stand is up.
Hi Jimbo Vills thanks for the reply. I did that infact but the FI light stays on when I join the 2 wires !! As soon as I disconnect them the FI light goes off, does your bike do that?
There is no reason it should happen according to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual. However I am wondering if you are going into the FI diagnostic mode. Do you have anything connected to the diagnostic socket?
No that I know. Is the diagnostic socket the square red connector right? Nothing connected there. All mods done are: side stand removed Exhaust servo motor removed, and the FI fault code 34 for the servo motor was showing. O2 sensor bypassed with proper K&N o2 sensor eliminator If I don't bypass the side stand switch I have the servo motor fault (34) which is fine, but as soon as the side stand wires are connected to bypass it then the FI light stop flashing for the 34 fault code and stays lit on fixed!
Has anyone got this mod in their bike?? 07 track fireblade. Wire number 5 from the black connector has a wire (white and yellow) and diode soldered that goes to the grey connector port number 16. Looking at the Haynes manual that port 16 should be blank! Any ideas??
Hey, The pin 16 to pin 5 is used in order to disable the hiss warning on the bike. A lot of race bikes use this technique in order to swap out the UK spec ECU to a USA spec ECU. Due to the usa spec machines not having hiss installed the pin 16 and 5 bypass is required. Apparently the USA spec ECU has slightly more power/bhp output to the uk models. as far as I am aware the side stand switch is just that a switch ie the two wires make direct contact when switch in right position. You could check the switch using a multimeter set to ohms connected to the switch pins and activate the switch if you don't just get straight connection normally around 0.8ohms for copper wire if this is higher a resister of the same amount showing on the multimeter may be required.
Hi Shiny and thanks for your reply, from which I guess my bike has a US ECU, and I guess it's good news in terms of power! And in some way good news that has got nothing to do with the side stand bypass. Back to the side stand then!! I will follow your advise and get back with the result from the multimeter Stand ...... ehm ... by.
What does the switch read with the multi meter connected? Your current reading from the loom is around the resistance of copper wire (depending on multimeter used). But it's the switch reading that might have a strange resistance when contacts are closed but never heard of anyone having had to wire in resistors to remove the stand switch! I do have one question tho you do know that unless you either buy a servo buddy type device or replace the servo unit (don't have to connect the cables to exhaust tho) you will always have the Fi error light on in some fashion???
The bike is a track bike si the side stand has been removed and the switch as well, so I took the reading from the connector coming from the main wiring. I thought you meant that. With regards the servo motor, removed completely too, it gives the fault 34 which is correct. Basically when I switch the ignition on without the side stand bypass it gives fault code 34 for the servo motor removed, which is fine but as soon as I bypass the side stand wires the fault for the servo motor disappears and the FI light stays on fixed.
