I'll need your help with a few things on this one I've decided to track my 2006 fireblade. It's been my road bike and was a bit neglected. The plan is to have a go doing my ACU test. So I've booked on for Mallory Park on February 14th, how romantic, I know That's with No Limits so if I pass I'll have a go at the first round at Snetterton with Jase, Jimbo, Matt and others albeit at the back of the grid The bike is pretty much standard apart from an exhaust end can and HM quickshifter. I've got a lot to get for it. The strip down begins anyone with OCD want to clean it for me? It's in a right state! First to go are the road fairings and I bought some HM plant fairings. The lower fairing needs some modding. A few holes need filing in and the rear needs a bit adding to it for the catch tray. I could be wrong on that though. Next the suspension has been sent to parkitt for new ohlins springs and fresh oil etc. I'm leaving the rear shock in for now and just having it serviced. By the looks of it I doubt it's ever been for a service. I've know the bike for 5-6years and me and my mate never had it done. Do you reckon it should be alright? Ideally i would like an Ohlins but I'll have to save for the Swedish gold What can be done with the shock linkage bearings? Can you re grease them or replace. Not sure on that one. What shall I do with all the annoying infill panels. I want to remove them but the left side has a few bits mounted to it. Where's the best place to relocate them. Brakes! I'm sticking with the EBC disc and pads for now. I've already got Hel lines on. After Colins advice I'm getting a Accossato (how do you pronounce it? lol) master cylinder from bikers discount store on Monday. Do I need to fit a brake lever guard? Accossato do them aswell. I'm dropping the rad to replace the spark plugs so I'll get rid of the coolant and just put water in. While I'm at it I'll change the engine oil and filter and have a go at lock wiring I've got a micron end can fitted at the min. Just ordered a power commander and O2 eliminator and blanking plug. Is it worth gutting the little CAT? I might just put a downloaded map in it for now and get it on the dyno later. Never ridden a 1000 on track can't wait to have a go! Will be an eye opener from my old gixxer.
Great to see your build here James, sorry i can't offer any mechanical advice as I'm a little useless in that department mate.. You won't be at the back of the grid either mate as i will be behind you, hoping to do Snetterton before race date if your up for it...
You cant get enough builds keep them coming. Send your rear shock off to Parkitt also for a service. EBC pads will do for the time being. If the bike is not going back on the road trim back your wiring or take unused relays off infills and cut some inner tube up and split your loom and fit on the and tape up the ends and cable tie in your track fairings. Get captive spacers for all wheels and a bracket to hold inplace your rear caliper to ease wheel changes. Oh and start saving you will need it.
Lol I'm saving alright. No holidays in the sun this year I've just had the captive spacers delivered yesterday. Do you have a link for the rear caliper holder? Not sure what you mean. The forks and shock are being done. Just not sure how the standard shock will cope.
James dont think rear shock can be stripped mate as no one can get spares for them !!! Check that they are stripping it n not just cleaning it !!! I might b wrong but please check Nice one for putting her on track, and trust me you won't be back of any grid mate. Good luck for this years racing mate.
Ten Kate do one but others do cheaper im sure I saw a thread on here not long ago. Tell Parkitt its going to be raced them should be able to tweak a bit. Linkage bearings should be okay just regrease. Accossato will be a great upgrade.
Good to see some pics there James. Re the left hand infill, I don't remember any parts being mounted directly to it as removed both when I removed the nose cone. Thos parts in the pic (specifically the fuse box) should be mounted to a metal plate that will bend inwards so as not to obstruct the new fairing. The rest of the gubbins behind the fuse box can be removed as part of the flapper removal mod. On a side note, are you keeping your side stand on as I need the switch
The side stand has to be removed so it's your if you want it. I'll have a look but I don't think the switch comes off the stand. I disconnected the switch further up the loom. With the breather pipes I think they have to be standard. I've only glanced at the ACU stuff. I've got a lot of reading to do
My next question is...... Shall I stick with standard gearing for now to get used to the bike? The plan first is also to get a QAT to help with my repetitive strain injury but would a QAT, -1 front, +2 rear be too much?
At first I'd try out a -1T on the front to get used to it and then add some teeth as you go to the rear. You will probably end up with a few rear sprockets for different tracks anyway.
Go for both. QAT and -1 or +2 on rear depending on chain tension. You will need to do it at some time.
I'll have a go with both then. I could only fit a -1 front on my gixxer because the chain length wouldn't take the +2 rear, it was too tight. Should the blade chain take both?
I would buy both then go with which ever 1 you can depending on where your rear spindle is in the slot. If its at the front go -1 on engine sprocket if its at the back +2 on rear then try, take the unused new sprocket to your first test/ trackday and change if necessary. You may have to change to suit some tracks but not much in uk.
Cheers The switch may come off as I bought a stand without the switch but either way there's beer tokens in it for you Pipe wise, check the regs as mine was raced by the previous owner (hence the lack of side stand when I bout it), yet the complete flapper and PAIR assemblies have been removed, so the rules may vary? Regarding gearing, I've gone -1 +2 on the RR5 (which is the equivalent of just -1 on an RR6) which pulls really well with no scary moments other than when accelerating hard over bumps such as after Coppice at Donnington in 3rd The RR6 however, has -1, +2 & a HRC QAT, but I've not ridden it yet, so I can't really tell you anything usefull.
Dunno if you're sticking with a 530 chain, but there's a guy on TDR selling 520 stuff. I'm tempted to buy a 47T sprocket CBR1000RR WHEELS/DISCS 08/14 - Trackday Riders