1. I have added HID projectors to the bike which require a feed from the battery and have inline fuses to protect them. Its making the area around my battery/abs gubbins very messy and the OCD in me isn't happy. As this is the first test fit and I will be changing it out soon for the end product im wondering if I can get the connectors to be able to put extra fuses in the fuse box to keep everything tidy. I have tried Halfords, Maplin and Fleabay but cant see them. 2. What rearsets are the best for a 2011 c-abs blade??? I want a set that I can bolt straight on as I don't want to change the brake hoses yet as I cant bleed a normal brake let alone an abs one, or should I get some braided Hoses and get someone who knows how to bleed the abs system to fit them at the same time thanks
Cannot help on the fuses, but with regards the rearsets, I fitted R & G to my c-abs bike. They are excellent & allow near to the full range of adjustment in spite of the rigid brake line. You will still need to complete a partial bleed of the rear system because the banjo bolt needs to be replaced with a pressure switch type in order to operate the brake light.
1. With regards to adding more fuses to your current fuse box this could be done if and only if there are spare spaces that would allow additional fuses. In essence the terminals are just spade type terminals often 90 degree spade terminals. Option two would be to buy a small seperate fuse box and wire any ancillaries to that Wil only the one heave gauge wire being connected to the battery. Seperate fuse boxes can be found on eBay or even demon tweaks should stock them for use in the likes of kit cars. A lot of other forums recommend fitting a seperate switch or timer switch to HID kits as they don't like being turned on and off multiple times in short time periods as the rectifiers don't like it, this situation will happen on most new bikes that have there lights coming on with the ignition allowing the HID's will turn on but when you press the starter button the lights go out as the power is cut to the lights to give more battery juice to starting the bike then once the starter button is depressed the lights will turn back on again but after the short on off on which the rectifiers have issues with which can shorten there life expectancy! 2. I don't think there is such a thing as a best set of rear sets as they are all pretty much built for the same purpose - to allow the rider more positions in which to set the peg placement allowing for more comfort and/or feel. Due to most rear sets being track orientated they tend not to offer anywhere to fix the stock rear brake light switch resulting in as Swiss said the bike requiring partial bleeding of rear brakes due to adding a hydraulic brake pressure switch in order for the rear lights to function! But there are some that do allow the fitting of the stock light switch rizoma comes to mind on that front and which look great but are not cheap! Are you finding the stock position is causing you issues while riding?
