Just back from a week away. I'll write 8 replies to this thread and edit them as post per day so to speak, so please don't reply till all 8 posted up. Got a brutal week with work so may take some time to get all done. Day 1 Friday 24th June I was invited to join the 'Rapid Training' track day at Folembray in Northern France which was on Friday 1st July. Looking at location , time needed off work I took the plunge to attend the track day on the way back from a weeks trip to Europe. I've done a fair few Euro trips (mainly Pyrenees) with groups but for various reasons ended up as 'Billy no mates' so to speak and going solo. The plan was to head over early Saturday morning and head towards the Voges mountains which I have read loads about but never really ridden, then down to the Swiss Alps before heading north towards Reims for Thursday night. Arranged to stay with a pal in North Kent the Friday and booked an early tunnel as he was heading out early (5:30 I was told) on holiday with his family. Had a good evening watching Glastonbury footage when he said he had to leave by 07:00 , checked tunnel and read 2 hours either side all OK so thought happy days and didn't stress too much about getting booked time slot and watched Muse having a few cans. Bike (as per title) is my 2014 Urban Tiger, purchased as a Cat D write off from Mark (Yorkshire Gooner) on here so would be a good test. Andy from here had fitted a 12 outlet on the top yoke and I had also invested in Kreiga bags, picked up a rentec luggage rack from this site, plus a RAM mount spider grip for phone. Had also gone for a Givi tanklock bag - theory being all valuables go in tank bag if I left the bike. Security was to be a Honda U-Lock also purchased 2nd hand (but brand new) from Jimbo. For satnav I decided to trust my Xperia Z1 phone and 'Here' maps and had downloaded the maps for France and Switzerland in advance so no data connection needed when roaming. I'd wanted to stay in Andermatt but hotel prices were shocking so the only pre-booked hotel was 2 nights in Disentis (on the road to Chur) for Monday and Tuesday night. I'd seen a note on the forum that Matty was heading to the same areas with a group of his pals and we made vague arrangements to try and catch up en-route if possible. Managed to get away from work in Manchester at a good time at lunch, quick work conference call from 2pm at home then I hit the road and headed to Kent. Friday afternoon traffic was bad, the only good think was getting almost 200 miles from a tank and could have got from Tesco Wilmslow to the Brentwood turn off the M25 on a tank (but panicked and fuelled early) Rocked up in Kent just after 8, quick Tesco and takeaway run and all was good (with Glastonbury to watch to boot as mentioned)
Day 2 Saturday 25th June Made it to the Tunnel to find long queues and resultant delay - Wales were playing in Euro2016 so loads of Welsh fans heading over to enjoy the match in Paris. I knew I was late / had missed my scheduled slot but didn't bank on getting bumped back 90 minutes - lesson to learn here - either be on time or book a later tunnel slot but turn up early. Had a brew and spoke briefly to Matt and agreed to keep in touch with progress Followed a bunch of supercars onto train to join a pretty empty carriage which made me think 'I bet I could have fitted on an earlier train...' So here is the bike in fully on touring mode! The rack with plastic bag (quality luggage) has waterproofs, gloves, overboots (which do work) , high vis. - wanted this totally separate from Kreiga contents so if its pouring down they can be left closed. Main 20l Kreiga was for clothes, then a 10l with a 'tech box' and a few tools etc, then wash kit and and shoes in the other. Train left about 09:30 so rolled into France about 11:15 local time Decided to take Motorway to Cambrai which is about 100 miles into France just to get some miles covered. From there I took to D roads and trusted Here maps to and a paper map to get me in the direction of Verdun. France had clearly experienced some torrential rain as many roads were covered with sand / dust washed from the fields by recent storms. Weather was good and made fair progress east with music streamed to cheap ebay headset linked to phone (can stop / start music and skip tracks, just set phone on shuffle and leave it to run). Pretty soon you start to see memorials etc. from both wars which featured so heavily in this area and came across this WW2 tank so thought needed to stop for photo. This is at Montcornet At a fuel / supermarket stop for a quick sandwich and drink got talking with this group (clearly stag group) who were taken with my bike, I wanted them to stand behind it to get photo of them AND the bike but it was lost in translation! All good fun and at this point I had decided to head for Verdun for the night. Roads really started to empty and were glorious to ride, great temperature and nice swift progress with cars moving out the way where possible which you just don't get in the UK. I wanted to watch the Wales game which started at 6pm and rolled ino Verdun just after 5pm. Headed to the tourist office to be told 'All hotels are full' at this point I was hot, been up for 12 hours and really liked the look of Verdun as a place to stay. Tried Booking.com and Accor (Novotel / Ibis) reservations but nothing within 25km. Was pretty fed up and thought there must be somewhere so went to the largest waterfront bar and asked if they could suggest anywhere, and they came up trumps with a hotel round the corner. 30 mins later I'm sat with a cold beer and let out the biggest cheer when Wales score - clearly I'm the only person rooting for Wales in the area! Decided to take a walk round and found this memorial (in the colours of the French flag) - whole town was really good with so much history. This is a large monument in town - it is defiantly an area I will re-visit and collected some history guides. Being mid summer it was light till really late so after watching a free summer season concert (some of the acts were great, some less so and all in French) I went for a wander with the camera and captured this - not bad for a pocket size compact. Only downside of the hotel was no parking, however the local police advised me to park in the very centre on the pavement as this was covered by CCTV and well lit. Was a bit dubious but just decided to trust them - had visions of returning to bike in the morning with it lying on its side....
Day 3 Sunday 26th June Bike was not knocked over / touched overnight! Made a good start and headed to Bar-le-Duc , not the most direct way to the Vosges but roads were recommended and certainly lived up to it - great progress however trying to find a cafe for breakfast (I like to stop for a coffee and snack early / mid morning some days) that was open was a failure, then had to hunt for a petrol station before leaving to head south towards Neufchateau. Weather again was perfect. Made it down to the Vosges for lunchtime and headed via Mirecourt , Rambervillers and onto Saint Marie-aux-mines, only to find the town I wanted to have lunch in totally overrun with the annual gem festival with traffic chaos, everywhere full - I had planned to get fuel there but in the madness just cut and run onto the Route De Cretes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Route_des_Crêtes This road was lovely - soon climbed out the town and into high mountain area the Voges are famous for - got to a junction with a restaurant so perfect time for a sandwich a a break. Asked for fuel and was directed towards Colmar which turned out to be another great road, avoided a direct return and was soon on the Route De Cretes. Stopped at a junction here to watch the locals enjoying mountain bike course down the mountain with ski lift back up. Destination / target on the route des Cretes was the 'Grand Ballon' so after another pit stop for a drink I soon parked up and got directions and headed here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Ballon Its maybe 10 - 15 minutes walk up to the radar station but the views were certainly worthwhile and as it was now late afternoon was pretty empty too. After a few stops for photos it was decision time - was tempted to stay at a hotel there, but it felt a 'Bates Motel' esq so made the call to head to Belfort and try and meet up with the Matt and the others he was travelling with. The route des Cretes really was a good option - amazing views and even for a Sunday afternoon pretty quiet. I only scratched the surface of the Vosges but like Verdun it is certainly an area I will return to and combining some time in Verdun and the Vosges would be a really good trip. Picture below was to try and give an sense of scale to the mountains - some of the roads are low level, others much higher. Lots of routes in RiDE magazine / Bike etc. to help anyone plan a trip. Made my way to Belfort and 'Here' maps located the hotel no problem - the bluetooth instructions and perfect location to glance at the screen are brilliant. Hotel had room available and after putting electrical devices on charge headed to the town square to meet the others for an enjoyable evening over a few beers chatting about routes etc. and making vague plan to try and meet in the Alps later in the week.
Day 4 Monday 27th June Monday dawned with a tiny bit of drizzle - watched Matt and co. depart with waterproofs on but a quick check of the Swiss 'Rain Radar' app which is fantastic showed that the rain would soon pass so another coffee / faff with kit / packing up and it brightened up so headed off guided by the phone to take motorway a short distance south before turning east for Switzerland. Given i'd set off day after the Brexit result was quite interesting to 'leave the EU' on Monday morning at this point where there is no border control at all. Put this up to show that motorways / toll roads (which can also include tunnels on non toll roads I think) are green not blue. The annual ticket is 40CHF which for the speed saving even for 2 / 3 days is well worth it (and the fine is 1000CHF I think so not worth the risk. Didn't envy the driver of this timber, and was thankful I didn't meet him on a hair pin as its HUGE but he must get about OK driving it. Made really easy / steady progress and hopped on the motorway south towards Interlaken - the central area of Switzerland is really clogged to make progress if you don't use motorway and for an hour of blatting I maybe saved 2 / 3 hours poor riding. Went through Emmental (of cheese fame) and up a Col for spot of lunch - got chatting to loads of locals enjoying a day in the sunshine - all were really interested in my bike (not sold anywhere but the UK) and where I'd come from. Felt like I was getting in Switzerland with hints of snow on the mountains. The route took me over a Panorama Col and was def worth stopping for photos here for the view: Adding following image to show how much 'forced flash' can lift the foreground (e.g. the bike) compared to image above. Soon found myself nearing one of the main junctions of passes in Meiringen (which I actually think would make a perfect base for doing the Swiss passes) and took the Sustenpass (2224m) over to Andermatt. Bit of a blat with a Focus RS but he left me through the tunnels / bends as just didn't know where you might hit a river of meltwater over the road! Putting this photo in as an example of 'helpful failures' when people offer to take your photo - such a shame the bike chopped out / in half (or maybe I am fussy...) Better image here taken by me... Dropped down into Andermatt and got fuel at what is possibly the most expensive garage in Europe, but also famous from a Bond film (will look up which one) In addition to the Here app on my phone I'd brought the 1:400,000 Borch map (waterproof / durable version) which I found perfect as it had all the passes marked. It was then a fairly short run over the Oberalp Pass (2044m) and onto my hotel / hostel in Disentis. On the way I went over the top of the new Gothard Tunnel which fully opens this year and will make getting to Italy loads faster (if less fun) then using the current tunnel or passes. Checked into private room with shared bathroom after a great day with sunshine pretty much all day and settled into the bar for the England match. Was the only England fan in the bar which was pretty busy with a good atmosphere - lots of banter and spoke with loads of folk and a few beers later turned in after a good night
Day 5 Tuesday 28th June After 4 pretty long days on the bike (most days prob. 10+ hours) I decided to have a morning off - the town where I was staying provides all guests with a free 'visitor' welcome pack which included a return trip on the cable car. Decided to take the 09:00 up and have a coffee in the mountains Was really relaxing up there - almost silent and a good way to chill / switch off. After a quick coffee fix was back down on the 10:00 cable car. Walking back into town visited the local co-op and realised that the shocking prices of Switzerland could be 'contained / managed' with a bit of planning / shopping so fresh rolls, local cheese and tomatoes = top notch picnic - also got a few beers for the evening warm up! Back on the road and headed to Andermatt - again via the Oberalppass which was stunning , the only shock was a huge area of roadworks where the road was dug out and single file gravel (video to follow in time) with traffic lights to get over the pass. From Oberalp it was down to Andermatt and onto the Furka Pass - a pal a few years back got a 1,000CHF fine on the approach to Andermatt so caution was exercised (at first anyway). Started to use the GoPro mounted on the side of my lid and was getting used to the controls - also realised by hunching down I could get a visual check it was recording with the flashing red light - Alpinestars gloves are no good to work the touch screen of the app - the other option would have been the GoPro remote but its yet another bit of kit to keep charged etc. The top of the Furka pass was stunning as image below shows - spoke to loads of bikers / took photos and bike was certainly getting interest. From the Furka pass its down to Gletsch where the Grimsel Pass starts - even though there is snow on the ground it was roasting hot even at the top of the passes. Following gives an idea of how twisty (and empty) the passes are - its worth remembering this was late June so just before the main holiday season of July and August Furka Pass is on the left, then Grimsel pass snaking up on the right - also love the picnic table and chairs which were stored in the front of the 911 - great spot for lunch for them Another brilliant run up the Grimesel Pass with views to die for - while there are a few places to go for a good blat at times its good to back off a bit and just take the view / road in as it was amazing, however nothing prepared me for the top of the pass, where it was like another world. Heading onto the main stop bumped into a group from all over Europe (Finland, Estonia, Germany) who were away for 3 weeks and loving their road trip. I then bumped into Matt and his pals who were heading to meet a work supplier for the evening - we confirmed our meet point for the next morning to have a day on the road together doing the passes. This was my top spot for a my lunch made earlier - and top be honest I was happy sat on the edge of the this frozen lake taking in the view and chatting to folk about the trip. It was then down the Grimsel - one plus point of solo travelling is if you think 'What's up there, what's the view like - I want to get some good photos from here' its your call, so I investigated the following hotel which is now on my bucket list to stay at! The view looking down the pass / valley again was amazing and shows how little traffic there was - there was no need for any 'close call' overtakes - just wait 20 seconds (tops) and it was totally clear It was then down to Interkirchen and back over the Susten pass (in the sunshine), Andermatt and the Oberalppass to Disentis - stopped to take a few shots at the Oberalppass in the evening sunshine - also had a close(ish) call - roadworks are marked at the start in Switzerland by two tall vertical red and white columns - after passing these I think its a mandatory speed limit and no overtaking till you pass the next set. Following a pretty slow Discovery on a dead straight road I start to overtake, just at the point where without indication it pulls left towards me as the right lane was closed for road works but almost no warning signs. A few seconds later it could have pushed me off the road - but just one of those things I guess and I want to replay video to see if either said no overtaking or any warning about the lane closure. Back at the digs sunk a couple of cans while sorting out kit / electrics / memory cards / etc. and the only thing I wish I'd brought was a bluetooth speaker as phone speakers are just junk and its one to add to the kit list for next time. Bar was pretty quiet after the previous nights football but still a good time and good food - also received a text to advise Matt's hosts were taking the group for a ride out so wouldn't be able to meet up in the morning as planned - no drama I thought, I'll just have a slightly lazy start....
Day 6 Wednesday 29th June Disaster! As mentioned the Oberalppass was having major roadworks and I'd missed a sign stating it would be closed from 08:00 to 20:00 on the 29.07.16 effectively cutting off the route to Andermatt (so a good job I was under no time pressure to meet Matt as previously planned). This is where a map is invaluable - A quick look identified two options (dam those bloody Swiss Mountains) of how to get to the passes I wanted - but both were VAST detours but I had no choice but head south into Italian Swiss side (and almost Italy) on a 1.5 hour detour. There was a sign like this on the Oberalppass (This is on the approach from Italy) but just did not link date to my depart day or I'd have got up early and missed the closure - maybe travelling with a group somebody would have spotted it. I had wanted to do the Gottard Pass (from Andermatt) but approaching from the Italian (South) side on the motorway to make up lost time I had the following choices. 1. Take the long, hot and dusty Gottard Tunnel to Andermatt, then traffic / road works but up into Andermatt and ride the pass. 2. Leave the motorway and take the pass to the top then back down the same way 3. Pick up the Nurfenen pass as planned after the Gottard and make my way back to France and Belfort. While trundling along the motorway with the Stone Roses playing (good travel tunes) I took option 3 and had another brilliant run up to the top of the pass with GoPro running. Have since learnt that Matt and co were here about an hour before me, but the whole view / top of the pass was shouded in cloud / mist so amazing what a difference it makes. Had a good chat with few lads on KTM RC8's and again they were really impressed with a) That I'd ridden from Manchester b) Was touring solo c) The bike colour scheme as they had never seen it - said less than 100 in the world and prob. very few will have made it to the Swiss Alps. It was then back at the top of the Grimsel Pass and another stop for a drink / bite to eat and yet more photos... At the base of the pass I stopped and had a drink with the guys on KTM's I'd met at the top of the Nurfenen Pass - was good to hear how they can nip up for a day really easily, or the Italian Alps or head south - they also saw no problems with the UK leaving the EU which was refreshing to hear. Really like this junction / Interkirchen and as said think it would be a great base to stay as great options for rides out. Spotted this which shows the Swiss DO have a sense of humour! Used my remaining Swiss Francs to buy petrol as i left (had I not just paid 3.50CHF for a small lemonade I'd have had a full tank of fuel but there you go. I'd asked the KTM lads about getting to Interlaken and they were clear, don't take the north side as its village after village with low speed limits and traffic lights etc. but take the toll / motorway on the south side which still has a good view and is a good road. Took this advice and made good progress to the main motorway. From Spiez it was motorway up past Bern to Biel / Bienne where there is a 'missing link' in the motorway network and it was traffic hell to get through town in roasting hot temperatures - rejoined the motorway to Tavannes and headed to Tramelan which was re-tracing my route from Monday but I knew it was an easy route to follow and decent roads so not bothered at all. Crossed back over the border into France and the EU at the same point - stopping for a break at the border. At Belfort the hotel was pre-booked and soon chilling with a beer before heading into town with Matt and his group where we watched lightning storms from the not so distant mountains and found the bars stopped serving pretty early. As a staging post for a 'blat into the Alps' Belfort is not a bad option but prices for some things not so different to Switzerland - I think a pint (the general compare currency) was about the same. Food appeared the shocker - a burger and chips was 25CHF which works out at £20 and it soon adds up but for a few nights its not an issue and after all its a holiday but imagine after a week you'd be churning through the cash.
Day 7 Thursday 30th June This was the day to head North away from the Alps - I had arranged to meet friends on Thursday afternoon who were attending a track day at Folembray which I was also doing. Set Here maps to avoid motorways and head to Langres where I would join the Peage for an hour or 2 to get North of Reims. Steady run over where I found myself at the back of a line of 10 almost new Police riot vans (full of police) heading the same way as me - it was a single carriageway road and the vans were hovering around the limit, under at times but never over. I managed to pass 2 or 3 then thought 'I'll take a break and let them head off - also put the GoPro onto helmet. Back on the road with 10 mins or so I'm back with them and I just thought (after starting camera) sod it I'll pass them - sometimes I passed 2 / 3 at a time - they didn't move to the side to help me pass and even found myself passing one of them over a solid white line! Stopped in Langres for a break and coffee - its a town I've passed a few times as D roads to the south pass close by if you wish to leave the motorway. Think this should have come with a flake - was just a cappuccino It feels a good town and could work well as a first night overnight stop. Leaving Langres I had my closest call of the trip (which I thing I have on video but not reviewed yet) - Came to a T-junction and turned left onto main road onto correct side just at the point a van joined same road turning right from a house just to the left - video will show all but it must have just missed my rear wheel as it pulled out and I passed it. I 'think' I was indicating left but want to see as camera should have picked it up. On the Peage stopped for lunch and got the now traditional meal deal (long story / in joke from a previous trip) Here worked perfectly to find the Gitte which friends have stayed at a number of years - its changed owner and lost some charm / changed approach but still very good digs with small indoor pool and very secure. Went for a BBQ with the previous owner to see their new home - great food and saw his last restoration project - a stunning E-Type Jaguar. He runs an exclusive car restoration service / storage facility. http://www.atelierdescoteaux.com/
Day 8 Friday 1st July Early start for ride over to Folembray - myself and 3 Triumph 675 Daytona's The trackday is a summer event for 'Rapid Training' who are based in Buckinghamshire providing real world road based training courses and assessments and are used by many of the main bike magazines as part of their risk assessments etc. All Rapid staff are ex or serving Police Motorcyclists. The day is very much road bike focused and all ride which gives it a unique feel. The track itself has no marshals / flags and is run 'open pit lane' During lunch I read about the events to mark the Somme taking place that day - I'd mentioned there was a lot happening and decided to leave the track day to visit Albert (the nearest town) - on the bike had best chance to get through traffic etc. As friends said 'if you don't go you'll kick yourself that on the 100th anniversary you were next to it but didn't go' The town centre was closed off but bike were allowed to enter as long as they stayed quiet! I packed up near the main town and saw a huge number of events taking place with vehicles / re-enactment folk in period dress. Found that the large crater was out of bounds, as was the main memorial which is understandable given dignitaries who had attended the services or memorial that morning. Headed back to the Gitte for a fun even where I popped my 'Cards against humanity' board game cherry!
Day 9 Saturday 2nd July We had planned to visit the car restoration business for a tour - however the owner was called away at the last minute. I had a tunnel booked for late afternoon so thought I'd re-visit Albert and hope to see the crater and memorial which were closed off previous day - its on the way to Calais so no real detour. I was shocked at sheer quantity of memorials / cemetaries in the area - stopped at one and learnt the 'Red Barron' was buried there before being returned to Germany The crater at Lochnagar was open - i think it was the largest explosion off WW1 to create it in an attempt to break through the front line. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lochnagar_mine I located the memorial at Thiepval and while the visitor centre was open access to the memorial was still restricted. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thiepval_Memorial Leaving the area came across another cemetery which again is amazingly well preserved So many unknown graves or other like this such young lives lost As with Verdun this is another area I will visit again as so much history / areas to explore. Was then a hack up the motorway to the tunnel which had delays at check-in so missed my booked train but managed to get the next one. Was then the 250+mile run back to Manchester and got home just as darkness fell - the waterproofs on the luggage rack had not been touched once the whole trip. Really was a fantastic week away on the bike - think biggest drama was cracking the back cover of my phone on day 1 with a hotel key thanks to its stupid size keyring, then my sunglasses arm snapped off but did not need them a huge amount so no problem and could have got a paid at a supermarket / garage had I really needed it. Found other bikers from all over Europe were really helpful and twice helped to spin / lube the chain for example. Many others travelling solo (such as Carlos from Barcelona on his BMW F650 heading to the bike BMW event in Germany who I met at the top of the Susten Pass) or in groups meant if I had needed help should something have happened I am sure I'd have had assistance. The end of June is a great week to get away and for 2017 I will look to do a similar trip - maybe Verdun and Vosges - but once there the Swiss Alps are just so dammed tempting.... The luggage worked brilliantly - I found I amended packing to have shoes and wash kit in one US10, then my 'tech box' of cables / chargers / spare batteries / memory cards etc. plus chainlube, tyre repair kit went in the other US10. Tank bag had maps,passport,camera ,phones wallet so was never left unattended on bike. The RAM mount spider grip for phone attached to telferizer ball mount is brilliant and highly recommend it Here maps makes a phone a realistic alternative - only thing to note is it does not announce the town names, just 'Turn right, take send exit from motorway' etc. but you get used to it. Things I'd take / do differently: Bluetooth speaker for evenings / relaxing (mainly if solo) I'd not pre-book hotel if travelling solo - there is always somewhere with a room I think esp as it was just before holidays. Book tunnel at realistic time, or later than planned and turn up early.
Cheers for feedback and glad folk enjoying it 2 more days written up this evening - I'll add route maps at the end as some may like to see that Will try and finish over the weekend no that I've got into it - then its the small task of editing down the video footage (go pro and phone / camera ) into something watchable!
Good work. Would love to know the camera type (sorry, bit of a camera geek !) Reading about Switzerland made me smile - have not been there for about 5 years - but seem to remember the same thing, and made a comment about leaving the place before it bankrupted me. I seem to remember the Julierpass after leaving Chur. Look forward to the rest.
It's a now discontinued fuji finepix exr900 travel zoom compact. It's perfect size for tank bag / pocket. I am looking for an upgrade with a large sensor - there is a new Panasonic tz100 but big jump in £ over the Fuji but good reviews and has a 1" sensor which will make all the difference.
Finished write up - will look over video clips and try and do something - also have stacks of GoPro from helmet to look at
Nice write up Al, enjoyed that and as a plus its always pleasing to hear that Tony the Tiger made it without any dramas after his hospital visit
Cheers Andy - when it was roasting hot in traffic with temp gauge hovering at 104 - 106 I did keep thinking 'This is a good test of the radiator aka please don't fail me now!' Trip was about 2,300 door to door - would have been just under 2k without the detour and going to Albert on the 1st in the afternoon.
Good write up al, enjoyed reading that. Little more detail next time though please Love touring with the lads, but when I've done some small stuff on my own, I've enjoyed that also for different reasons.... Glad the lock finally got some use
