Trying to get a crashed RR9 to run

Has anyone got a tilt sensor for the above bike? I've not managed to start the bike since I got it a few days ago and believe the tilt sensor is at fault. It was a crashed bike being turned into a track bike.

I can't get continuity when testing with a multimeter unless I'm testing it wrong??????

Cheers

Darryl

 

Darryl. The RRA and later CBR1000RR use the exact same sensor as the 2004/7 CBR1000RR. Just one question. Does the fuel pump prime when you turn on the ignition? If it primes then the sensor is working. I will test one to see what readings you should get from a good sensor and let you know.

 

Thanks for the help mate. I'm starting to wonder if I have bitten off more than I can chew! Just seem to find bits missing here and there. It is a cat c crashed so I know it was a gamble.

How do know if the fuel pump is priming? I have bypassed the tilt switch at the loom but the battery was knackered so just bought a new one but that needs a top up first.

 

ok, no idea if this is the correct way of testing or not........

two plugs on fuel pump, black pump has 11.96v going to it with ignition on. The brown colour plug has no power to it at all.

 

the easy way of testing is turn the ignition on and listen for a fairly loud mechanical pump noise. Sounds not unlike bitjuzzzzzzzk. Or a windscreen washer pump. Lasts 1-2 seconds. If you don't hear that then the pump is not priming. KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid is always the best way. If something isn't happening testing the voltage won't really tell you much other than it usnt happening. Three main causes of fuel pump not ironing. Bad connection or blown fuze. Tip over sensor broken or active or side stand sensor messing about but on a Honda generally pulling the clutch in will sort that.

 

well just checked and def not priming then. Just a few clicking noises and a short buzz/beep noise.

 

pulled the fuel pump relay and checked for power there but had none. either with tilt connected or bypassed.

 

If the HISS is not recognised...... You can maybe turn the key but if its a stolen bike or the key has dropped its code then the pump wont prime

 

Thanks for those that have made suggestions, it is appreciated.

I have made some progress and as a result I have changed the title of the thread so that this thread may help some other poor devil in my situation that is searching for answers

So, pump now primes but the bike still won't start. The thing is I'm not really sure what I did to get it working. The first thing I did was check all the fuses which were fine. Then I began looking as other possible causes using the online manual which is very good. Long story short, ended up back at the fuse box and found a blown fuse even though I know I checked them all prev. Anyway, changed it and pump primed.

This BAS works fine and clicks off the relay when tilted to stop the bike.

One thing I have noticed though is that the blade seems very slow to crank compared to my Yamaha big bang. I went and put a brand new Yuasa battery on it and it still seems slow to crank. I even put power directly to the starter and it was the same. Unsure if this is normal for the blades or if the starter is knackered.

I put the bike on a car battery via jump leads and it was the same. Infact I thought I had done something bad as the starter got rather warm and then the bike would not do anything when pressing the start button. Checked all fuses again, removed tank and tested starter relay which was fine. Only thing I found was that there was no continuity on the diode in the fuse tray when the manual says there should be??

Anyway, put it ll back together and it turns over again, phew.

So now I need to work out how to check for a spark and go from there.

 

The blade starter always sounds like your battery is on the way out - even with a full / brand new battery so I would not worry too much about that.

What is the history of the bike - other than it be Cat C, was it stolen recovered or crashed ?

I am pretty sure the manual has details on how to tell if the HISS system has 'read' the key OK to link the chip to the ECU

Where in the UK are you, and what year of blade is it ?

I am sure you will crack it, its just going to take a while - and in the process you will become a master at learning the layout of the connectors / pipes etc. so its not all lost.

 

Alblade: It's a 2009 ABS and I'm in Nottingham.

Judging by the radiator I would say the bike was hit from the side. Frame, forks, subframe are all fine as are wheels and forks. It's only done 13k and it generally looks in good condition with no sign of anyone having messed with it before.

Currently looking at the diode located in the fuse box which i believe is somehow linked to the clutch and side stand switch. The manual states there should be continuity across it but I have none. I started another thread on here asking if anyone could pull theres out and confirm it has continuity. The diode it £28 so don't want to go buying another one without being certain.

It's pretty much one step forward, two steps back whilst being frustrating as hell and satisfying at the same time.

 

Been checking this thread to see how you got on and if I could help as my bikes are a very different model year.

Re the diode in the fuse box. Get your volt meter out, earth the black probe on your meter and measure both sides of the diode in situ with the ignition ON using only your red probe. If the diode has power then the difference should be exactly 0.7V.
Alternatively remove it and try for a resistance reading in both directions to check it's not blown (n.b. diodes only read one way).

Also, did you get anywhere checking the spark? You should be able to get a spark tester on the end of the coil/leads, or use the old method of earthing a spark plug on the end of a lead and hoping to see a spark.

 

Cheers Muffking, think I recognise you from trackday riders perhaps?? Anyway, here is what the manual says on testing the diode


I have no continuity which is why I am wondering if it is knackered. I don't think I can test it in situ as no access to it once in fuse box.

I need to get a set of spark testers so I can see what is going on. Took a look at the air filter last night and seems clean in there. I assume this is an aftermarket air filter?

 

That diagram helps as current will always travel through in the same direction as the arrow with a voltage drop of 0.7v.

Out of situ, put the meters black probe on the centre pin and measure for resistance to each of the outer pins. There should be be some resistance there, but none the other way around (i.e. red on the centre pin and black on the outers)

 

Ok, Im gettting 4.48 M ohms the first way and nothing the second way with the red on centre pin.

 

No continuity though as per the manual which makes me wonder if it is knackered?

 

Yep, should be the same on both sides using the same probe on the centre pin.
Can you try the diode on another bike, dealer, forum member etc?
Maybe even take your meter to a dealer and measure their diode if they'll let you.

 

I've posted a thread asking if someone on here would be willing to check theres and see if they get continuity or not. If the manual states continuity then I'm just confused as to why I don't have any.

 

May have popped on one side. Were there any blown fuses? Does it look blown on one side? Where does it live (may be the same as 04-07?)

 

The tilt sensor fuse had blown preventing the pump from priming. On the 08 onwards it is located in the fuse box under the seat. On the 04-07 the fuse box it located under the left hand fairing and does look to have the same diode. Dont expect you to remove fairings though pal unless your track bike has dzus clips!