Don’t know what happened there !? I’m trying to solve a no prime problem and whilst using the manual I’m finding that my interpretation of what colour is at relays and the ECU compared to what the manual is saying is incorrect. It’s been a long day and maybe all the connections and colours have made me lose the plot. Would somebody please check my drawing against my plug (black ECU) because I just can’t figure it out. When in certain cases I’m asked to check pin 15/16 for instance the colours on my drawing don’t match the manual or what I see in front of me ???? As you can probably tell, a day with stripping and testing has left me like a colour blind halfwit ! Cheers for any assistance.
Doesn't seem to match up. You sure that diagram is for the right country etc? Don't have a Haynes to hand but sure the one I had for the rr7 had different ones for us/uk etc.
I did consider like you said that maybe my drawing is for the US model. This just confused my testing yesterday. I’d printed it out in colour on an A3 sheet to help me and was using the manual and the drawing at the same time. Started with seat coming off, ended up with fairing totally off, air box completely off to get to kill switch connection and finally ended up wrestling the BAS out from the nose cone. Nightmare ! Pride and joy now in bits. I’m now just going to ignore that drawing and stay on the manual. Cheers for reply. Appreciated.
Cheers for the reply, yes all checked out. Nothing seems wrong with no heat marks or suspect connections. Cheers for your help.
Update: Can someone tell me if the red probe in the image is pin 4. I’m concerned about the plugs orientation for testing. The results are the exact opposite. No grounds on required pins and all grounded if I turn the connector 180 degrees. Replace ECU or open circuit on whatever colours I have. Big cheers for any help.
Agree with you. The drawing shows ECM so I plugged it in. It will only plug one way and you are correct, it shows 5-6 terminals are empty. “Replace ECM with known good one” I need to confirm findings in a UK manual and then it’ll be time for the dreaded chat with the Mrs. Cheers for all the help
If I need to replace the ECU is it possible to just swap it out (UK one obvs) or do I have to mess about with keys etc….? Thank you for any info cheers
I’m always prepared to listen to anyone trying to help me out and it would be discourteous for me not to re-check. Thank you for keeping me honest Boothman. A simple mistake could be costly. I followed the manual back and fore troubleshooting but by the end of it I was on ohms and was looking for voltage a few times. If this was someone else’s bike and I was in their garage I would be so much more chilled but when it’s my issue, that’s different ! When something is wrong with my bike nothing else matters and it just consumes my mind. Mad I know but it’s always been the case. Only thing that is in the back of my mind is that when I started the bike just previously to this, and went to put her in gear she cut out. Stand was up, I looked down and saw it up, restarted in gear and off I went. Next fuel stop no prime. Mmmm…..side stand shouldn’t interfere with no prime. Now you’ve got me thinking
ECU replaced and changed chip in key to pair with ECU. These were bought off reputable specialists. Still no fuel pump prime but noticed my HISS light does not come on when I turn key on. Reviewed an old start up of my bike and it shows it illuminated before starting. Loosing faith now. I’ve run out of ideas.
I have a similar problem on a yamaha where it stops when going into gear with the stand up. It's a faulty ignition lock switch. Fill it with wd40 and it then works again. I assume you tried wiring up the fuel pump directly to check it works.