Hi folks, While I wait for my engine to be rebuilt and since the bike is track only I figured I don't need all that clutter and unnecessary plugs in the front. Instead of just clipping all the plugs off, I decided to strip it and remove all unused wires and make it look tidy. The only thing needed to stay were the dash and tipover sensor plugs. Everything else - headlight and indicator plugs and relays, intake flap solenoid plugs and horn need to go. Started by stripping all the insulation off. Then removing the unneeded pins from the main plugs.
Most wires here are for the headlight, running light and indicators so being removed: Some were spliced , so needed to be cut off, unnecessary part removed and the rest soldered back together.
After everything was removed here is what I was left with: After everything cut was soldered and heat shrink wrapped: A dab of silicone on the main plug leftover empty holes: Protective insulation back on and wrapped in tape: This little bridge was used to bypass the tipover sensor, but I will be putting it back on as a safety measure:
Now onto eliminating the key switch. Some of you may be familiar with the Woodcraft keyswitch eliminator harness, that plugs inline with the right handlebar controls (kill and starter switch) and the main harness and eliminates the need for the keyswitch altogether. The idea is that it modifies the start stop switch on the handlebar to be always in the on position and then the actual button serves the role of the keyswitch itself. When switched ON it powers the whole bike. The original Woodcraft costs $60 USD + shipping from US so I decided to modify my handlebar controls wiring and make my own. A few things need to be kept in mind: - This method is designed for US bikes which do not have the HISS immobilizer system, therefore it eliminates the keyswitch itself, but does not bypass the transponder antenna immobilizer. Regardless you can still remove the actual keyswitch and its wiring and leave only the HISS antenna in place; - It is for track use only - 1st because it compromises the bike security and 2nd because you should have no headlight, turn signals and horn, due to difference in wire thickness between the keyswitch and the start stop switch on the handlebar. It will become clear with pictures; - It is for non-ABS bikes only you will see why later;
So if you look closely, this little harness does 2 things: - shorts 2 wires on the bottom plug together - connect the corresponding wires on the opposite side to the killswitch plug on the main harness (brown plug) So the ECU thinks handlebar control is always on the ON position and the actual button functions as the keyswitch power.
Onto modifying the handlebar control wires: The 2 cut wires are what the start/stop button connects and disconnects basically. Here is the heavy bulky keyswitch with the brown plug removed, which will be used on the handlebar controls: The 2 wires on the connector side - soldered together. The other side extended and the appropriate spade connectors soldered on. Connector put back on, everything heat shrink wrapped and protective insulation slid back on.
If you compare the keyswitch wires, they are much thicker gauge than the wires on the killswitch and I was a bit concerned about this at first. However the ignition keyswitch powers a lot of things that are missing on a track bike - headlight, running light, indicators and horn. With the headlight removed (and being the main power draw) then there is no problem with the thinner gauge wires on the handlebar switch. Additionally - if the bike is equipped with ABS - the abs pump and ECU are also powered through the key switch, which is why it is not a good idea to eliminate it and run this power draw through the start/stop switch. At this point, when I power the bike on, they key must be near the HISS antenna and the bike can be started. I have purchased a separate blank transponder chip which will code to my ECU (very easy procedure) and will figure out a way to temporarily secure it to the HISS antena while riding the bike on track. Once the transponder is removed, the bike can be switched on, but cannot be started hence retaining a bit of security.
Hi Martin, I don’t suppose you have the orange and blue indicator plugs still from your loom? I need the plugs as a bike i am working on at the moment has had them cut off so need them and a length of wire still attached. If you still have them let me know how much you want for them please. cheers Stuart
Thanks for the write up, I'm just in the process of doing the same on my 2015 model and was wondering how easy it would be.
Hi mate, I will check, I think I still have them. Don't want anything more than postage. Have in mind that I live in Bulgaria, but I doubt a small envelope will be more than a few quid. I am travelling next few days, but as soon as I am back home will check and PM you. Cheers,
@martin_deyanov - How did you manage to get the pins out of the connectors? Is there some sort of a tool to get the wires out?
I got rid of all the extra wires on the front loom today, the only part I gave up on was removing the wires from the dash plug. I thought I had a means of getting the wires out but they just wouldn't budge, I ended up just cutting them short and taping them up in the loom.
