Hey, We're trying to get an abs blade to go into bleed but the system just keeps posting up an abs code of 1 long 1 long then 3 short and the bike does not take any notice of what we are doing with the rear brake lever. The bike is setup as it should be to get into bleed mode ie 2 fuses out and red plug with brown n green wires jumped but she just won't do as it should! The bikes just blinking away code 1long 1long 3short if the jump wire is removed and fuses reinstated all is well but that doesn't solve how we can't get into the bleed mode! Does anyone have the abs part of the service manual to check what this 113 code means? Has anyone had similar issues getting a bike into bleed mode?
thats a 2-3 'combined abs control unit malfunction/excessive supply of control unit power from the outside' The manual suggests a ABS reset
As your battery has been on optimate for a while its probably pumping out a load of volts at the mo. Leave the battery disconnected for a while (over night) as I believe this will also clear DTC codes. If the code still persists run the head light for a while to get the battery in normal running voltages.
Thanks mate I'll disconnect and try it again in the morning. It really was a royal pain today, so I thought best to quit just now and try again with a fresh start. Hopefully the ECU will reset and clear with the battery disconnected. Thanks for all the help today, it really is appreciated. Colin.
Such a nice simple straight forward system. That's what I love about the ABS system that our clever little friends in Japan developed, but obviously never considered that anyone would have to maintain it, and that it would never be used in anything other than vacuum controlled dust and particle free conditions.
Ok bit of an update. Stuck a few bits on the bike so that I could ride it up the street to find out what ABS code would show. In the end it turns out that the rear unit is the culprit and that I need to re-bleed this before trying again. The fault code was a 5 long 4 short flash. While I was at this though I have ended up buying a more up to date ABS ECU from our own yorkshiregooner as the ECU in my bike is the first generation. All going well in the next week or so I will have cured the problems and also sorted out my front suspension.
That manual looks seriously good!! go on then post the link again to save finding it...I think it would be helpful long term!
Zip here is the link to the manual I had found earlier in the week on another forum which was recently reposted here in another thread, some nice soul has sat n scanned in each page off a printed copy to build up a handy electronic copy n then uploaded it for the masses. It was originally 500 odd megabytes think it was before someone helped by compressing it down to a more workable size at just over 100 megs.
That is bloody awesome, cheers Shiny! well handy for us numptys with ABS versions and the 'Older' manual!
Ok folks, we have made some pretty big strides this weekend on Colin's bike both with regards to the brakes and the suspension but more on the suspension later in another thread. After all the problems we were having with the bikes ABS ECU basically ignoring any of our inputs or attempts to either clear current fault codes in memory or put the bike into bleed mode. Not long after I had headed home after being temporarily defeated in our goal of fitting a set of Brembo m4's and a brembo MC at the final bleeding stages, I had Colin purchase a newer 2012 bikes ABS ECU from our very own Yorkshire Gooner, which arrived quickly and well packaged, thanks for that mate. Colin's bike was the first or one of the very first abs blades to enter the UK and was still utilising the original 1st gen ECU and software version. Anyway first thing this morning (well after being served a nice big breakfast from Colin) we set about pulling the rear plastic seat cowl surround off in order to gain access to the ABS ECU to swap it out for the new one. once the new ECU was all fitted we decided to see what if any fault codes were registered in the donor ECU, which we found a blown fuse fault which was probably caused when a fuse popped as the donor bike was sliding down the road before giving up its precious parts so other blades can survive! anyway it was time to test if this new ECU was the cause of our problems as we attempt to erase the fault code from the memory. so we follow the fault code erasure procedure laid out in the manual and Boom the bike relays back to us the codes been erased! so with that out the way we set about finishing off the brake bleed we started two weeks earlier. We carried out another manual brake bleed of both front and rear brakes to make sure we had removed all the air that was possible. Then it was time to attempt the electronic part of the brake bleeding process so once again we start to follow the procedure in order to put the bike into bleed mode, then we had another "yeeehaaa" moment as the bike goes into bleed mode on our first attempt. So we then continued to follow the manuals procedure to electronically bleed both front and rear ABS braking systems and once complete the levers felt so much better with very lil travel before becoming solid! Testing the bikes auto calibration processes shows the ABS system was all working as it should (well while sitting on paddock stands at least!) It was then time to rebuild the bike up and give it a clean in order to remove any brake fluid that may have been spilled on the bike during the work. It was then time to send the test pilot out to make sure the ABS light would function as it should and stay off after going above the operational 5mph speed! So off Colin went down the road in all the responsible protective gear bikers should be wearing while riding...............Ehhhhhhhhh........hmmm well he took it a quick spin anyway testing both the newly fitted brembo equipment and making sure the ABS light would stay off as it should! He comes back a few minutes later with smiles ear to ear and informs me the brakes work minted......better than when it was new and no issues with the ABS light coming on! So jobs a good un for now and just needs to be more thoroughly tested out on the road but initial tests look good. Thanks to all the folks who helped out with advice and allowing me to bounce ideas off them, you know who you are so thanks again! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For anybody else who is trying to get to grips with the method of getting into the brake bleed mode the timing for the sequence should be: Hold n keep holding rear brake lever down, turn on the ign on then release the lever just after the bike has completed its auto test (honda call it self-diagnosis test) basically watch and wait on rev counter coming back round to 0rpm (abs light will be on) a click will be heard from the rear seat relay area upon releasing lever.(abs light will go out) Then press the rear lever down again another click will be heard (abs light come on), release lever another click will be heard (abs light go off). Then pull/push either front lever for bleeding front brakes or rear lever to bleed the rear another click and buzzing will now be heard from either the front end or rear depending on which system chosen to bleed and you should be into the correct mode! (ABS light blinking) You should hear a distinct relay click noise from the seat area each time the lever is either applied or released while trying to get into bleed mode!
Good job mate, your the man, just shows you how you can be lead up the garden path, god oh god I know how it feels! but you kept on the case spent some dosh and got to the bottom of it! not easy but you have come out on top! Nice!
I would love to have even had any sort of input on this, but to be perfectly honest I was way over my head. I don't mind getting stuck in, but when it come to electrics/electronics I'd rather leave that to the pro's, or at least those with the patience of a saint to work it out. (me personally I had given up hope).
Bet you felt like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmCTrI9YRbc#t=120 Let's Roll!! That's excellent news! just in time for the yellow thing in the sky! So ultimately the ABS ECU was fried? The manual does say not to have the bike hooked up to a charger but I'm surprised that this might cause an total failure.
The auto calibration test/check sequence (honda's self diagnosis test) is what the bike does as soon as you turn the ign power on and all the dash lights go through there checks along with the rpm counter raising to max and back to zero (the auto checks take miby 2-3 seconds from start to finish). Relays all power up and fuel pump primes during this test too. I have edited the procedure I listed above to add a bit more info as well as make it a bit more clear what I was meaning and noticed while carrying out the procedure well hopefully making it more clear anyway!
Don't know the exact cause of the ECU failure! Don't know if the charger was the actual cause and tbh I cant really see how it could be as the voltage output of the charger would always be within the working voltage range of the ECU ie within 12-14.2v! But I would recommend not having a charger connected to the bike while carrying out the electronic bleed functions just in case! Couldn't see anything about not having a charger connected in the abs notes in the service manual! Where abouts is it printed? Now whither or not the ECU was flawed from the beginning (ECU is a first gen unit with first firmware revision!) is also a possibility although Colin has not had any issues with the abs system since owning the bike from new (I on the other hand could get the lever to hit the bar however as i posted in another thread!) but he also has never had any diagnostic/service work carried out on the abs system until now either! Even after we had identified the issues with the ECU ignoring out inputs the unit still functioned perfectly well on the bike albeit now loggin errors but still working none the less!
