as the video is uploading, we got the bike into bleed mode as it normally does - no problems there. The video will show for the first time it goes from 1 blink to 3 blinks! then we got the 4 and 5 on its own without the bleed at the front caliper. I'm assuming that its a different process for an SP - its the only thing I can think why its not following the manual..
Now remember i'm clearly not as eloquent as Lambchops haha.. we had had 2 blinks about 20 times, never 3, then after this it went to 4 and then 5 on its own..
just found it in my junk folder! Gary your an absolute star! the procedure is completely different! Will upload your file here so that others with the newer bike can get a copy Here we go! finally the puzzle is solved haha
The big H don't make these things easy. Even the way they write up the procedures is done in a way to really put you off.
Started bleeding mine today, luckily mine is a '13 and Slick's procedure works a treat and all the lights flash in the correct sequence. Although it does help if you keep an eye on the reservoir, as I pulled air through when bleeding the front valve unit simulator side. What a bastard to get the air out. I managed to finish the procedure, but not happy so will repeat but have run out of brake fluid :-(. When's the best time to bleed the front master, before or after you bleed the calipers? Cheers
nice one Gary.. Its better as a 2 man job I think to keep on top of things haha.. I would say that the best time to bleed the master would be at the start of I'm honest, but probably doesn't matter.
I tend to do the front master both before and after the calipers mate, as that is the usual suspect for getting the air out.
Deffo mc first then last. Before i start the abs bleed i make sure the conventional line are absolutley air free.
as I said its uber fecking important not to introduce air into the ABS, so ensure the conventional line are air free before even considering the ABS bleed. Air in the Honda Abs is a world of pain!!!! follow this http://1000rr.co.uk/maintenance/11853.htm Plus Swiss Ts bible http://1000rr.co.uk/maintenance/16292.htm or the new 14+ procedures https://www.dropbox.com/s/10kt72bs7t9u3qv/CBR1000RR 2013+ C-ABS Bleeding .pdf?dl=0
Slick, much appreciated. I have the lever hard, but I'm sure there will be air in the abs circuit, hence I'm bleeding again! Cheers Garry
I think the really awkward bit in the front power unit. Don't remove the rad or headers; you can get the job done with a crowsfoot spanner on a long extension & some very long nose pliers to attached a hose.
Having completed this at the weekend, I advocate removing the radiator and header, especially at 24 months as the coolant needs changed anyway. You need a hose on the nipple to check for air or you'd just be guessing. I would just get really frustrated trying to do it with limited access. Having pretty much completed the rear bleed satisfactorily, when you have to bleed the rear line after opening the nipple, I decided it was all too easy and you guessed it, pulled air into the system and had to start all over again
I am going to be doing this soon. I have tried opening all of the links but all I get is "The requested page could not be found". Can anyone help please.
