Hi just thought I would post pictures for those wanting to remove those rear pegs. Did mine today , took about 2 hours, but that was going very slowly with a few cups of tea and radio 2 in the background!! THERE WAS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE FUEL TANK OR FUEL COVER Things I would recommend would be to ensure that you place towels/sheets etc over rear wheel just incase a stray bolt whacks your swingarm etc causing damage and the sockets that you use to actually remove the bolts attaching the subframe to the bike, wrap them in electrical tape, if possible to avoid scuffing the black frame paint. Watch the youtube video , Hotbodies CBR1000RR under tail installation guide, part 1. Up to the point 2:44- this gives you an idea of the initial removal of rear seat fairing. Now here's what I did. its not the definitive method but worked for me, check all torque settings when you refit as per Honda manual. The final result of the pegs removed is below Bike placed on centre stand Remove rear seat Remove small front seat side pull off panels Undo the bolts securing the front seat and remove Undo the x2 bolts securing the rear of the tank cover to the subframe, as the subframe is attached at this point Remove the 4 securing bolts of the tail section slide the tail unit back, only needs to be about 3/4 inch to get the male tabs clear. have a look inside the rear seat area and you can see when these tabs are clear. I then lifted the left side of the unit up and over the subframe. There was no problems with this or the feeling of its going to snap. My garage was about 5 degrees with snow outside!! Remove the aluminium seat lock bracket x4 bolts The method is basically everything beneath the rear seat needs to be removed and the plastic tray that contains the battery, fuse box , and a few connectors etc stays BUT has to be disconnected from the subframe and mudguard. The hotbodies video shows you how to disconnect the fuse box, the white connector for the rear lights and there was also another connector on the left side, behind the fuse box that also had to be disconnected. Once the fuse box has been removed and out of the way you will see a small black screw in the bottom of the tray. Undo and remove. This screw attaches the mudguard(or whatever you call it, mine has HRC written on it!!) to the battery box. Remove the 2 push type pins as shown in photo. They keep the rear of the battery tray attached to the sub frame.(I have already removed the mudguard in this photo) There are 4 bolts that have to be removed next and these are located on the underside of the mudguard(?) and screw up into the subframe. Be careful as you can scratch the tail section bodywork so i put some tape on the bodywork just in case I scratched it. Remove the rear mudguard/tail light section and place some where you wont stand on it! Next choose which side of the subframe to split first, I did the right side. The idea is to do remove one side, remove the pegs on that side and then re fit and do the other side. You will see the silver brace strip between the subframe, undo the bolts on the side you are taking off.(I have already removed the subframe but forgot to take photo) At the rear of the subframe there is a bolt joining the half's together,undo and waggle to ease apart. Be careful not to lose the spacer. Now undo the subframe bolts on the side that you are removing. Tip wrap some electrical tape around socket if possible to avoid damage to black frame paint(left side shown here) As you remove the subframe which is now free , be careful that the spacer, which is where the seat bolt goes(top of photo does not fall out) The bike looks a bit like this now I then placed the subframe on the floor , with towels and a cushion to protect the paint finish and then removed the pegs. It took a steady pressure but eventually the bolts cracked and the pegs were no longer. NOW DO THE SAME FOR THE OTHER SIDE ONCE YOU HAVE FITTED THE SUB FRAME BACK. YOU WILL HAVE TO LIFT THE LIP OF THE BATTERY TRAY UP TO GET THE SUB FRAME UNDER IT TO SIT CORRECTLY. IF IN DOUBT HAVE A LOOK AT OTHER SIDE. ALSO BE SURE THAT THE SILVER BRACKET CONNECTING THE SUBFRAMES TOGETHER ABOVE THE REAR WHEEL IS CORRECTLY PRESENTED TO THE FITTED SUB FRAME. REMEMBER TO CHECK THAT YOU HAVE DONE ALL THE BOLTS TO MANUFACTURES TORQUE SETTINGS( dont blame me) End result is great
Good write up I was dreading it I just halved the subframe and banged them on like this I was stripping mine to dry for race fairings and put frame guards on also bang the sato hooks on
Just got my HM quick shifter to fit. I put a optimate battery charger on at the same time and that was a right royal pain in the ass as the battery terminal bolts are not that big and the bolts could be a few mm longer
I got them from Kyle racing America about 70 quid delivered no custom charges for really nice and I can strap bike a lot easier in the van aint really got a good pic of them best I can do at mo ha ha
My HM shifter was quiet easy to fit hardest part is the bloody fuel lines and my fat fingers while I was there I fitted HRC throttle and cables and a powercommander pcv
Ha ha . No fat fingers here. But I am a little bit anxious about getting to the plugs though. Fitting the harness should be easy .
Nice Post Paul. I've removed mine, and it does seem an unnecessarily awkward thing to do.. But it does make the bike look so much cleaner. Ozz
I was going to take the rear pegs off mine, and was actually wondering at the weekend how much work was involved. Seeing it now I don't think I will bother, the Mrs likes to go on the back (when I let her), and can't be bothered with that hassle each time. Shame, looks great to see them off.
Yup I thought that too.....but then thought what the heck, radio 2 playing a few cuppas and 2 hours later , job done. You can get Sato hooks to make refitting the pegs quicker by about 1hr and 55 minutes!! Hope weather improves , if it doesn't we know what you'll be doing then
That's a really handy post Paul. Thanks a lot. BTW,I'm a newbie to 'blades so can you tell me what street-hooks are for? I have access to dural/ally plate so if I need 'em and can get the dimensions (anybody got 'em?) I can make 'em and fit em while I have the bike in bits.
The plates simply bolt onto the inside of the frame and allow two things to happen, 1-to re attach the pegs in 2 minutes, 2 provide tie down points for transportation . Do a search on sato hooks either on here or a general google search and you will see what they do. No idea ref dimensions though..enjoy the summer weather
I'm going to remove my passenger footpegs. I did some research and found these (hopefully the picture comes out) basically they are adapter plates that bolt onto the inside of the sub frame and the passenger pegs will bolt onto these if the misses wants a ride, keeps her happy for a total £36. Will let you know when they arrive
Just fitted mine, took an hour from start to finish but I knew where the bolts where. Whate are those 4 'grommet' looking things in your photo, grommets ??
not to sure what they are at the moment, I'm still waiting all excitedly for them to arrive will keep you informed when they turn up
They are spacers that go behind the footpegs when you fit them to the hangers - it keeps them straight
