Thank you for the replies. I will check with my insurance first before removing C-ABS and going standard on the brakes then go for an MOT as ran out over Christmas and need to get back on bike. MOT Didn't realise last year as they don't ride bike and check if light goes out then comes back on when braking! All i need now is how to get rid of the pesky ABS light as someone mentioned it stays on after C-ABS removal.
It can be done. I had it removed from a 2008 cbr1000rr. The only issue the ABS light remained on after the removal and the rear brake did not activate the rear brake light but the rear brake light did work with the handle bar brake lever. Removing the system shaved 12 lbs off the bike. The task of removing the ABS system was done by Attack Performance in Southern California.
Its all explained in this thread. https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/abs-removed-the-light.36341/ Let us know if you have any questions.
Completely forgot about this! Still meaning to remove my ABS, after my lever came back to the bar and I almost jumped a red light at a crossroad I pulled the fuse out, brakes aren't great though. I'm not very tech savvy at all when it comes to bikes, after 8 years of riding I only learned how to tighten the chain a few months ago... how much do we think a mechanic would charge to do all the work? I'd rather pay someone to do it than attempt it myself as my bike is my only form of transport, wouldn't be ideal if I couldn't get to work! I'm pretty sure, even though I was told they'd just remove it for free, I'm not sure they were aware of how much of a job it is, it's also been a long time so it's unlikely they'd remember... Cheers all!
I’d imagine at least a days labour for a garage at £45 per hour plus VAT? That would be a guess from an uneducated fool at a private garage, not a dealer.
After 13 years, I am finally ripping the ABS out, did anyone do a step by step guide, so far I have the ECU removed. Where does the normal blade ECU live then?
Ah Cool, is there a written up guide as i am at a point to start taking stuff apart, how do you tldrain the fluid out before hand?
I am sure there is a guide in the forum please do a search. Now you will not be able to drain the whole system dry. Try to drain as much as possible. The plumbing is easy to remove as well as the abs harness and abs ecu. The issue you will face in under the exhaust outlets where one of the abs pump its located, with a bit of patient you will get it out.
OK nearly everything removed but how the hell do you get to the back bolt of the front module (the one behind the headers)
I have everything out now. Does anything have to happen with the loom I have removed the entire thing, does anything need to be stripped out and reconnected at all?
You’ll want to stop the ABS light in the clocks from being permanently on…… NOTE - Make sure to earth the clock side, not the loom side
Just done that bit, now to. Reassemble, do the blue and white wires need to be connected together, just looking at it with two wires cut looks wrong
All those wires do is go into the combined abs control unit/ecu which in turn connects the front and rear power units. As all these units have gone the blue and white wires are now redundant simply leave a couple of inches of wire then wrap with loom tape to the remaining wiring. This is what i have recently done having ripped out the abs system completely.
Thanks to everyone in the this thread/forum, I've just finished removing my ABS system having suffered from a terrifying lever to bar moment at 3 figure speeds. Anyway, system removed and HEL braided lines now on. Will take it out for a maiden run this afternoon but can't wait to feel the weight and braking difference. Couldn't have done it without this forum, so much good advice to read through.
Well done. Do you have a picture showing how you routed the front brake lines. I haven't got that far yet as I'm modifying the front end of my bike and mine will kneed to be longer than std.
