08 1000RR - Complete Rebuild - Crash and Fire Damage

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by martin_deyanov, Jun 14, 2018.

  1. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Starter positive wire connecting it to the starter solenoid.

    The one I got form the donor bike was a bit too short due to the different arrangement of components in the tail section of the ABS bike and could not be routed properly. Furthermore, the end bolting to the solenoid was a little different shape and would have to be convinced (with pliers) to fit.

    What do we do? Cut the new one and the original partly burned one and solder join them at the proper length. As I have mentioned before, butt connectors are not a good option for high current wires, so a proper solder job was done, double heatshrinked and voila.

    20180618_220344.jpg 20180618_220438.jpg 20180616_220618.jpg 20180616_220624.jpg
     
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  2. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Excellent tip, Martin. There are many who adopt the 'more is better' philosophy - often with disastrous circumstances. (not entirely sure I'd want to experience 'clogged passages' of any type!;))
     
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  3. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Wire harness in place and routed properly and secured with all factory clips in the tail section. You can see the empty space next to the battery and fuse box. This is where the exhaust flap servo motor sits and now has the servo eliminator circuit connected in its place.
    You can see the white marking on the loom plastic shell where it says 08-11 ABS. Well it is a non-abs, 2015 loom, which has a couple of extras over the old one. Will get to that later.

    20180619_214938.jpg 20180619_214935.jpg

    Complete airbox and throttle body assembly just put in place to test fit, connect the ECU and instrument cluster to the ECU and check for power and if the motor will turn with the starter.

    20180619_205922.jpg

    Prior to that - turning the motor by hand, just to make sure it doesn't bind or anything. More specifically - the alternator, sensor and flywheel as the tolerance there is very tight. Just making sure everything is installed correctly.

    20180619_210512.jpg
     
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  4. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    So at this stage it's just testing if the motor turns over and not actually runs? ...because, if you were running it, would you have to sort out the coolant/radiator circuit first?
     
  5. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Yep, just testing if the starter is getting power and turns over. Couple of turns and that's is. I am yet to put the gas tank, connect the fuel pump. Also have to bypass a couple of switches - like the kickstand (as it will not be installed - track bike) and the bank angle sensor (or tip over sensor as some may call it, again - track bike).

    Not sure if I will install the headlight controls and the clutch sensor at this point. Obviously I will not need headlight, horn or blinkers controls, but may want to have the clutch sensor. I will probably wire it directly and tap into the harness, without the bulky controls on the clip on.
     
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  6. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    How does the clutch sensor work? ...what I mean to say is, on my bike 2014/15 model to start I don't need to pull the clutch to start
     
  7. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    What about in gear? If you push the starter button, the motor will not turn unless you have the clutch pulled in.

    To start the bike there are 2 scenarios:
    - In neutral - always starts, regardless of clutch or kickstand position
    - In gear - you need to have the kickstand up and clutch pulled in

    So in my case with the kickstand bypassed, I have 2 options
    - bypass the clutch sensor as well - in that case I will have no wires coming in from the left handlebar at all, however I risk to try and start the bike in gear and it jumping under me.
    - wire the sensor only - this way I eliminate the above situation
     
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  8. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    OK, I get it....simple really :oops:
     
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  9. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Actually, now that I think about it I have a 3rd option - do not bypass, nor connect the clutch sensor. In that case I will not be able to start in gear, even with the clutch pulled in. However if I stall the bike, I will have to put in neutral, start and then put in gear again... hmm decision, decisions :)
     
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  10. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Can I upload a video?
     
  11. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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    Dunno, but you can always upload to youtube and link it here
     
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  12. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Think you're right, Hitch. I've never seen a means of putting videos direct onto the forum. This was raised recently when a member wanted to do a 'drive by' with his new exhaust. Ended up on You Tube.
     
  13. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Chuck that idea, Martin. If you had the unfortunate incident of stalling on the start line (track) you wouldn't want to be frigging around selecting neutral etc.

    That raises a new question: will you reverse the shift pattern, i.e.: 1 up, 5 down?
     
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  14. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Good point about finding neutral on the track.

    And good question. It was set up to gp shift when I got it. However, considering it will be an overall new bike for me, I think I will put it back to normal until I get used and comfortable with the bike itself. I am planning to put a bazzaz + quickshifter unit at some point and probably will switch to GP shift at this point.
     
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  15. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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  16. Naz

    Naz Active Member

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    Looks even better seeing the bike in the video, not far off now until it’s back on wheels!
     
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  17. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Thanks, it is coming together nicely :)
    Sorry for the poor quality, but I did take the clip through the messenger app to send to a friend. Should've used the proper camera.
     
  18. Naz

    Naz Active Member

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    Quality is fine, the effort your putting in to post all of this is appreciated.

    I haven’t done a rebuild for some years and watching yours is making me eager to get on with mine which is just stood there covered in dust! Just not got the time right now and don’t want to leave it half way through!
     
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  19. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    I mentioned several times that the second wiring loom I got was off a 2015 model (even though it was sold as a 2008, the part numbers and the labels were quite clear).

    In terms of wiring and functionality there are 2 major additions on the newer 12+ bikes - a lap timer and a GPS. Yes the wiring diagram (thanks Nigel) says - GPS connector. It took me a few hours to realize that it was not a GPS as in location positioning, it was GPS as in Gear Position Sensor... I felt quite stupid for a while :rolleyes:.

    The lap timer works via an additional relay located on top of the airbox along with the ECU and controls connectors. In its default position connects the starting circuit and the starter button works as intended. Upon activation of the lap timer in the dash, the relay disconnects the start circuit and the button sends a signal directly to the dash. In my case instead of a relay, I will simply bypass this connector with a fuse, but will get to it later.

    The GPS - the bike has a proper gear indicator after 2012 and instead of a single wire for the neutral sensor it has this 7-wire connector
    20180619_214938.jpg 20180619_230707.jpg 20180619_230717.jpg It has a separate wire for 1 through 6th and neutral.
    20180619_232458.jpg This is the original neutral plug from the burnt loom. I will simply extend it and tap into the light green wire above (which serves Neutral position).
     
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  20. martin_deyanov

    martin_deyanov Active Member

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    Neutral sensor connected and tapped into the harness.
    20180624_204658.jpg 20180624_205126.jpg 20180624_204646.jpg
     
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