Interesting..... So do you know which part number is the uprated ECU then and where on the ECU is the number? My bike is a 2011 model but registered Dec 2010 so I'd be interested to know which ECU I have. Cheers Rukka
Here the part numbers of the abs ecu's from the revised ECU to resolve an issue where the abs system would stay active and drain the battery when keys were removed causing bike not to start when owner returned! Part no: 38600MFLD02 2009 ecu with probs! Part no: 38600MFLD03 2010 ecu with probs! Part no: 38600MFLD04 2011 revised e.c.u!! Notice the end digit changing year on year due to Honda tweaking with the software?
you'll need to short the ABS diagnostic connector (the red one under the battery) this will give you the trouble code. As amnesia said some of the codes are pretty generic. If you are OK with a spanner I'd start by making sure the sensors are clean and give the calipers/pistons a good clean also.
Just a thought on these ABS problems. Has anyone considered going to Trading Standards or invoking the Sale of Goods Act? What about "Watchdog"? One of the presenters is a motorcyclist so maybe it might strike a chord with him? They wouldn't care if they upset Honda or not.......... Just a thought....
And fail... Almost ran over a bloke on a pedestrian crossing today... Didn't think I was going to stop. Neither did he. Just nothing... nothing... nothing... and suddenly (2-3 seconds?) it kicks in and froth wheel bites in. Stopped right on the edge of the crossing. Bone dry road, so nothing to do with brakes being wet. They'd been used for the previous 30 minutes with no issues so can't believe it was anything on them providing lubrication. And the damn squeal is back. H
I take it your taking bike back to dealer then? Mine is in at the moment for the same thing and is having bleed and ECU reset, let me know how you get on mate, please.
Well I checked mine and it's 38600-MFL-D04 so fingers crossed its a good one then lol. I bled the brakes last week and since then I've noticed that the "feel" is much more consistent. I just bled the calipers with ignition off so not done a full bleed. In fairness, I didn't see any bubbles come out but I flushed the fluid through anyway. The front lever was rock hard when I'd finished. Since then, I've done about 200 miles and done some REALLY hard braking from speed. The brakes seem to be very consistent in feel at the lever and don't fade or give more lever movement from one minute to the next. When pushing it around the garage or drive, the lever will come back towards the bar by about 1cm more than when riding normally. Ditto if I pull the brake hard when riding and the release and put it straight back on again. 1cm travel at the lever side is bugger all at the piston end so I'm not really worried if it stays like this. Gonna get it on track next month and give it some stick. More than anything. That will help my head if it brakes consistently. I can start riding this thing like it was designed to be ridden then...........
Bike went in this morning... The dealer is now talking to Honda... Had to train it back home tonite.. I hate the train... H
New front ABS motor tomorrow... FWIW the problems when using emergency braking on mine seem to be a (simple?) failure of the front ABS motor to fire. Which matches with the symptoms (Honda came up with the suggestion to change the motor overnight, about when I had the realisation of what's actually happening). It's a little more obvious on mine perhaps, because my rear brakes were squealing (Again). So when the failure occurs, I think it's just because the front brakes fail to fire. So the rear brakes lock up. ABS kicks in and releases them to stop the rear wheel skidding... Resulting in the failure possibly experienced by many where the brakes seem to fail but not completely (Because the front brakes haven't actually one anything). On mine with the squeaky rear brakes this results in a loud squealing & lack of brakes.. Eventually your speed drops to the level where ABS disables, and BANG the brakes kick in (Presumably because the is the same as disabling the ABS by removing your fuse). That doesn't explain the other bits... Like brakes working great when the front pads were changed (For a while). Working when brand new etc... But we'll see how they go with a new motor I guess. (Hopefully it's not actually a firmware problem. That would suck, trying to convince Honda that their ECU firmware had a weird bug that caused the front brakes not to engage at certain times). H
Travellingkiwi; When all this is going on (squeezing but no brakes, whatdoes your front brake lever feel like - normal braking "feel", or completely floppy like there's nothing there? Amnesia
Guys, hate to say this, as I have been on a personal crusade here, but after yet another total brake failure, and the reality of this is never getting anywhere fast, I have chucked the towel in and traded it. Nearly 24 months of s**t with this system, I don't want to make excuses but the failure last week, was the one that broke my resolve, I cannot see an end game anymore, so I have bailed out. Feel a fraud, but for the rest of you still trying to get an answer, best of luck guys, I hope you get there in the end.
Ummm... Reasonably normal IIRC... The emergency stop issue isn't like the failure when feathering... (I was usually too busy think F&*K! to notice a lot ) I was wondering if it all does come back to incorrect bleeding and/or something introducing air into the lines. If the air bubbles damage the pump (e.g. someone who likes diesel fuel pumps as a hero designed it). Leading to future failures like this that SHOULD have been remedied after a proper bleed (Which in my case the latest bleed did get two rather large bubbles out apparently)... H
You've done more than your share dude,but dont blame you next time you might not walk away its a complete and utter disgrace how Honda are gambling with folks lives!
