You do get a warning light on the OEM dash when you remove the ABS system. All you need to do is open the dash and cut the power to the light. I'll be doing this over the winter and will post it up on how to do it.
I removed the linked ABS pipes from the front and rear of my 2012 Fireblade earlier this year, I fitted Brembo M4's and a Brembo M/C and Goodrich lines. I left the solid metal pipes in place and all wiring and didn't have any problems. I also fitted a SES clock bracket with lock stops and made a straight metal bracket that I mounted the tilt sensor too, I also removed the sidestand and Left hand switch gear There were no problems at all apart from when I returned it to standard and had to bleed the brakes.
Wow that sounds a little drastic!! Was hoping after removing all the pumps and the ecu it wouldn't register at all! that sucks but think I will find another way around the issue as not really looking at opening the dash up and cutting wires!
No wires will be cut mate. It's a circuit board all you need to do is run a blade across the track to the light
Kind of half a job! But having the same effects and free from any issues! I would sooner ditch the lot and not only have a better braking system but loose loads of weight too... Pipes pumps wiring it's all going ....
Oh ok that doesn't sound so bad... What year is yours? do you have the circuit diagram? your have to keep me posted Colin and let me know....
Mine is a 2010 model bike mate. I have the workshop manuals here to look through, and will do a how guide when cutting the supply power to the ABS light. It'll be a simple job, and I'll keep you posted. If it's the 2012 bike you have then it won't be much different, I'll find out which track runs power to the light.
Yeh mines a 2014 but like you said it can't be any different, will be the same wiring loom etc... Great keep me posted Colin.... Thanks
Yeah I know your simple job.............handing the dash to me and saying crack on does not mean you done the job!!!
I know this is a blast from the past but just wondering if any of you guys went ahead and replaced the abs undertray with a non abs undertray after this? Is it possible? Please advise.
I never bothered. It can be done though I'm sure you need the smaller battery from the non abs model too.
Want to just send a quick thank you to people who contributed to this thread. Done my abs removal today and this helped a lot. If someone could post a picture of there non abs model without seat in place please. Going to fit a non abs battery tray so would love to see how it's meant to come together.
you will find a couple of issues when changing the tray as the rectifier is in a different location from memory in the tray. You can make it work but will need to mess around with the loom location unless you change the entire loom.
Wasn't planning on changing loom to be honest. I'm hoping to keep the same loom and work around new battery tray
i think the fusebox sits differently aswell/is different... i would keep the abs battery as its bigger wich is not a bad thing i feel. how did you get on with the abs light? managed to make it go out? i think all you need to do is cut the orange/green wire at the meter connector and connect the meter end to ground. that should make the light go out instantly (according to manual) so no need to open the clocks and cut into the circuitboard or anything..
Is it necessary to remove the existing loom when removing the rest of the system? Or can it be left in or bypassed etc.
Hi all. Sorry this is an old thread but I’ve just about had it up to hear with the ABS system and Hondas Teflon shoulder excuses. I’ve just removed anything and everything related to the ABS system. (God that felt good). Now I have removed the wiring loom, I have all power but nothing to the starter motor. Can anyone recommend or suggest a way around this. Thanks for your help in advanced!
