Yeah. Backed right off then dialled in 9 turns and it was still too soft. It's now around 10 (more like 10.5 I think) turns and it's showing 35mm with me in all my kit. (128 at full decompress and 93-94 with me on it after giving it a bounce. I took it for a run at 9 and it was around 40 or 45mm (can't remember now). The odd thing when it's fully extended its either 127 is or 130 odds (I'm sure he's not consistent on a tape lol).
I don't think these bikes have 1.04kg/mm springs then ... as that's a lot of preload. You need to watch the ride height now mate... as the front is going to be sitting higher. I am having the same issue and am talking to KAIS about it. As for fully extended you need to take into consideration 'stiction' of the forks... Best way to do it ... Sit on bike fully kitted... get mate to lift the front end on its supension a bit and let the bike settle, take measurement. Then get mate to push down on the front suspension and let the bike settle, take the measurement. Then it's a case of adding the two measurements and dividing by two. This then takes into consideration stiction in the forks. Given you've wound on 10 turns you have basically increased front ride height by 12mm over standard... On the rear you have risen the ride height 6mm ... So the front is now higher by 6mm ... NOTE: these are my measurements based on my weight - you need to check this yourself. If the difference is 6mm, we can either raise the forks in the triple clamps 6mm, or raise the back 6mm to compensate. Some more things for you to think about ... BTW this book is a good read: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/1893618455?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
So if I get this right, if I drop the bike on the forks by 6mm then the geometry will be correct? What is the correct unladen height on the bike then, and where is this measured from?
Nah you don't need to do that... what I would do is reduce the front preload by 3 turns to balance the ride height front > rear ... that's pretty much what I will be doing. I'm going to write up all the measurements this evening.
Those measurements will be for my weight I will be measuring ride height though at standard. I'm also considering buying a front wheel stand to hold the bike upright to make life easier!
I'm just under 6ft so not too bad ... ideal weight for me is around 85-88kg which I'm working on... Dropped down to 76kg at one point... it wasn't a good look on me lol (MTB accident)
Using other peoples settings is just guess work. It is much better to actually setup the bike for yourself. For example despite being nearly a stone lighter than you ... land up with 44mm front sag, 29mm rear sag on my blade with your settings. That is miles out. The rear should be about right for you... but the front... I'd be interested to know that measurement... I estimate 45mm + !
Believe it or not I did dial in YOUR settings this morning and went out for about 35 miles, although I did leave my preload both set at 10.5 turns and 6 notches where I was at 35mm on each end yesterday, I also put a quarter turn less on the rear rebound before going out and TBH I was impressed, although I had to dial in a quarter turn on both forks to soften it a little as it was too stiff. Much better now. Think I need to do the same with the rear rebound as I'm getting the same pattering as I was getting at the front prior to taking off a quarter turn. That'll be 1 1/2 turns out on the front and rear rebound to be about right for me.
How is using my settings guess work? He weighs the same 15st and mine was set professionally by jhs racing in Bristol! Who know a thing or two about setting up bikes as they do all the fast bike magazine bikes and have set up a couple of TT winners also.
Let us know then as I'm interested. Don't wanna spoil the bike by changing the settings too much and making it dangerous or handle like a shopping trolley!
