The crucial point as mentioned in an earlier post, it's sometimes surprising how little torque is required. I've seen wheel bearings crushed through ignorance and it's easily avoided tbo. I also know plenty people who claim to have a calibrated arm which can judge torque thru experience (including me at times lol) who are surprised how far out they are when tested. No biggie really as it's your bike but never ceases to amaze me how many people are more concerned about a microscopic aesthetic scratch to paint or frame but don't give a fig about the important stuff. Especially when all the difficult thinking has been done for us. It says more about how a bike has been cared for if the mechanicals are done correctly rather than the fourteen coats of wax made from a honey bees ballsack. Granted it's not what catches our eye when looking at a prospective new bike tho
So back to the point, what material are the new bolts as if they arn't the same as Honda's then you'll potentially strip them. If the bolts come with torque settings, use those dude not what it says Honda/Haynes manual. Falling all that use the FT settings
they look like the same material although these are longer and have allen heads. I have used the settings supplied by the new bolts as they were lower, thanks to all
Only problem with torque wrenches is how accurate they are, some are not worth spending money on IMO. The torque values may be all the same but to within how many ft/lbs N/m's etc. I always torque and then a bit, but that's me. Its all about quality and that means cost, how many buy Ti bolts then use a crap torque wrench ??
