To be fair the fault code was cleared at the service and maybe it hasn't reappeared. He didn't seem to have much idea though other than saying the servo motor was missing. They normally leave it connected if they fit a new can but that is only to prevent the warming light on the dash.
That's sort of a whole new ball game then. When we do cans and Power Commanders etc, I guess we should expect some 'confusion' within the electronics. If 'third party' instalments have been made on your bike, it renders my criticism of the dealer and tech unjust in that they should be expected to instantly rectify a fault that my be attributed to by others. I'm not being harsh on this, but my earlier response was with the assumption the bike was standard. There are other threads reporting problems after third party mods have been installed, especially one by @keithg1748 (if I remember correctly) whose idling/hunting was all over the place.
i fitted a servo eliminator and removed the full servo motor with the end can , and the only other way is by getting it on a dyno and using woolich software to get rid of the servo , yes its still all over the place and still snatchy at low revs , but just haven't got the money to get it on a dyno to sort it out . but to be honest it was doing the same with the standard can on .
I've had my ecu mapped on a dyno with Woolich software and up until the recent service I've been really happy with it. I have been in the habit of firing it up and driving straight off so I can't say for sure the problem didn't start before the service but it seems too much of a coincidence. I'm not blaming the mechanic, I think he's a good guy, but these bikes are very complicated now. I know the ecu is supposed to learn the correct air fuel mixture and my concern is that through disconnecting sensors for the service something has been reset and the bike is no longer learning following the ecu remap. The o2 sensor was disconnected for the remap so how does the bike learn the correct air fuel mixture?
what sensors did the mechanic disconnect for a service ? and why , im no expert but I wouldn't have thought anything would be removed just for a service , and I did speak to a guy who does ecu mapping and he said they do remove the o2 sensor as this can also be removed through the software , what error code is showing on your dash .
I'm not sure whether sensors were disconnected but to clean the air filter a number of electrical connections have to be undone to get access to the airbox. There isn't an error code on the dash but the diagnostic tool the mechanic used showed a couple of TPS errors which he reset. Logically the ecu must rely on information from sensors to adjust the air fuel mixture but I've no idea how it does it.
the dyno guy may have adjusted the TPS to get the best from your bike instead of the standard , so do you think the running of the bike has gone backward ? , I would have a word with the guy who did the ecu flash and tell him whats what and if there a decent company they should put it right , as you shouldn't have to prat about like that every time you have the bike serviced .
I've been speaking to the dyno guy, he has been very helpful but is struggling to diagnose the problem. He's leaning towards a TPS issue too. The strangest problem is where a slight touch of the throttle during warm up sends the revs up and they don't settle down when the throttle is released.
shit that's not good , if you leave it do the revs settle down then ? , and is it ok when it warms up and what was the bike like when you had it flashed , if the dyno bloke is struggling I would get back to the dealer who serviced it .
Have you fitted heated grips, or replaced the grips? I have seen the throttle get a bit reluctant to close on its own when released until the new grips have been fettled with a tad.
Why are you not taking it back to the garage you had the service with who messed it up in the first place. Went in running right came back running wrong Take back and let him sort it
It rides OK when it's fully warmed up. It has been running great since it was flashed nearly a year ago up until recently. I haven't taken it back to the dyno guy yet, that might be the next step. He could flash the ecu back to standard. The guy who serviced it wasn't a main dealer but the dealer I took it to afterwards didn't have much of a clue.
I haven't fitted new grips but I did fit new levers. The clutch lever wasn't operating the clutch switch properly though so I put the stock levers back on. The Bad Dog levers from Sportsbikeshop aren't suitable for the 2017 Blade I've found.
If I thought he could I would. I'd rather find someone that knows the bike inside out but they seem to be as rare as rocking horse sh1t.
Very interesting. I thought there was no change since 2008. I hope they change them over for you! (Not wanting to ignite the 'Chinese levers' debate again, I have 'Doggies' on my 2011 and reckon they're the dogs bollocks - so to speak!)
If difficulty in getting an appointment is an indication of quality then Blade Honda in Stratford must be exceptional. They are now booking for early June.
Yeah, it is a shame in that respect. I've suffered similar lead times, but by the same token, as a regular they have squeezed me in for some works. I think they have 3 Honda mechanics and 2 for Triumph.
Have you tried a ECU re-set, Hitch has a post on how's its done below https://www.1000rr.co.uk/threads/ecu-reset.35408/#post-461969
