Getting mine from MCRR too, ordered today, delivering tomorrow. Can't ask for more than that - they appear to be a very well oiled machine! (Pardon the pun!)
Just emptied the old coolant got only 2litres out, manual says 3.5!. I understand that I will not be able to totally purge the system but does this sound about right?. The old coolant was right up to the neck of the cap Thanks in advance!
Thanks for pointing this out Slick. My Motul Motocool arrived yesterday so doing mine tomorrow - will no doubt find the same thing! Anyone got any tips for getting the rest of it out? I know I'll not be happy until all that old crap is out to make way for the new! Cheers.
I'm guessing most the extra is from the bottom half of the radiator. The hot coolant enters mid way and the cooled coolant exits mid way therefore there is no way to completely drain the rad. Ideally there should be a drain plug on the rad too. Well at least I have 2 litres spare for the next coolant refresh!
Hy guys! I read that you put MOTUL MotoCool in your bikes. Have you experienced a drop in operating temperature? I flushed my coolant, can't tell how much it went out, but when I tried to fill it back again I ended up putting less then 2 liters. Have you guyes experienced this? I removed the pump screw, i removed the cap and started the engine. I was pouring water through the neck all the time until it reached 100c. Water was crystal clear When there was no more water spitting out i fitted back the screw and poured that coolant. I ended up pouring just 1.8 liters excepting the reserve tank Book says 3 liters How much coolant did your radiators swallow? my bike is RR8
If you do not drain the radiator you will only be able to fill up with an additional 2L. Just flushing is unlikely to completely remove the old coolant. Without removing the radiator and draining completely you will end up mixing motul with the old stuff. As long as the old coolant and motul are compatible you should be OK. My main worry would be over diluting the coolant, I assume also you used distilled water on the final flush? Also assume another 250ml- 500ml for the bleed process.
Thanks for the reply Slick I get it... I assume the old one was removed if clean water was coming out. I hope is just a bit dilutted But what about the MooCool? Does the engine ride at lower temperatures then usual?
Maybe a degree or two, but to be honest a clean radiator fully bled probably has more effect. I now use castrol gp only because it is cheap, readily available and silicate free
Be careful using Motocool - it is NOT silicate free. Honda specify a silicate free coolant/antifreeze or you risk knackering the water pump. Silkolene Pro or Mag Cool are both good and cheap, and most importantly are silicate free. Don't assume all motorbike coolants are silicate free - they are not.
This is a very good video to follow... Other tips - once coolant stops flowing from drain bolt, remove the hose just below which attaches to the pump. This will remove the remaining fluid. No need to take the radiator off or any hoses off it, the drain plug is at a lower point so gravity will do its job here. Only the pump hose is lower hence why this should be removed. Also important to run the bike up to fan temperature (about 103 degrees) when flushing to ensure thermostat valve fully opens. Otherwise old fluid will remain here. Flush ideally with distilled water and not tap water. Once finished, keep checking reserve tank levels for the next few weeks (before riding as fluid will be cool). If the system needs more fluid it will 'suck' it from the reserve tank using back pressure to replenish levels. Topping up is then done through the reserve tank.
I had trouble sourcing a crush washer at a reasonable price. I ended up paying £5 for an OEM part plus delivery. It now sits in my parts tray because I re-use the existing washer... Took too long to arrive! Mind you, given the crystal garden growing in the expansion bottle I think this was the first time the coolant had been changed in ten years!
Had a bit of a skim through this, and as I've recently done the job, thought I'd add my 2p.. Buy yourself some distilled water from the local motor factors. And I recommend silkolene MagCool as its silicate free. Take your fairing panels off and the tank cover. Run the bike to stir up all the sediment and get it up to temp to let the thermostat open and let the crap mix. Let it cool til you can bear to touch the crank cases. With a rag covering it, and a bit to protect your frame, crack the filler cap to prevent glugging, Undo the drain bolt on the water pump housing (10mm if i remember right) and catch coolant. Once drained, slacken lowest jubilee at water pump housing and remove hose to eliminate as much coolant as possible. Refit hose and plug. Observe torque settings... Refill system with distilled water. Pour slowly to allow air to escape. Run bike with cap off and observe level. Blip the throttle as it warms, eliminate air and top up. Refit cap Run up to temp. Repeat above drain process. Repeat fill with distilled water. Flush again. All manuals give varying advice on emptying the expansion tank, Removing the swing arm and tipping it out is not the ballache any of us want, so I've found an easier method. If you've got nimble fingers, remove the front two petrol tank bolts, tip it backwards, prop from airbox to underside of tank to maintain access. Under the tank is the overflow/siphon pipe for the expansion tank, This hose has a plastic joiner directly beneath the petrol tank. Split hose at this joint, pull back through chassis to above swingarm pivot and you'll be able to unthread it. Keep a thumb over the end, lower it to below the height of the expansion tank and, voila, it'll empty itself. I then pushed a length of garden hose in the filler and blew in it to pressurise any remnants out. Reinstall siphon hose Refill expansion tank with coolant (300ml approx) If there was a lot of crap come out of the cooling circuit during the distilled water flush process, I'd advocate flushing your radiator out. If the hoses haven't welded themselves to the inlet/outlet pipes, its not a long job to remove. Radiator can be flushed with mains pressure from a hose pipe. Install a new OEM drain plug washer as they're alloy, not the typical copper. Check hoses for abrasions, especially where the t-pieces fit near sump. Refill system with mag cool. Run up and ensure thermostat opens (get 100C on clocks) Allow to cool and check level. Best of luck
This came in handy to fill the expansion bottle, but as JC said ref flushing and draining expansion bottle.
