Thanks mate - im basically wondering if that black/grey plastic on the blades can be painted. No idea how to tell what its made of!
The Neutrinos that supposedly exceeded the speed of light at CERN were actually timed by the French... Even Brian Cox didn't want to talk about it on television and that is an even bigger shock.
Zee, if there's no mould stamp hidden on it anywhere, ask why it isn't painted in the first place, theres usually a reason (cost, flexability, hard wearing, chemically resistant, textured etc??). I've learnt the hard way in the past painting stuff that shouldn't be painted
Good answer - I might look at getting it those bits 'wrapped' in that heat shrink plastic stuff (which is probably the Devil to a man of your profession).
Dont get me on that, I've gotta get some work done ! lol ! here's a harley tank i wrapped, fookin nightmare [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG]
Rooroorooster, can you give me a bit of advise I did some panels for the gixxer, base acrylic, then a two pack lacquer, they looked really good, two months later the lacquer started to peel, any idea why it did that. I flattened off the base coat etc. I now have to get them redone.
Hey mate. This can be a problem in bike paintwork. Paint manufacturers say ideally their paint needs to lacquered within a specific time for adhesion properties e.g clear coat must be applied within 8 hours of applying base colour. All paint in the motor industry is developed for cars, get it in get it painted get it out, a high turn over means more profit, the more the turn over the more paint is purchased and the paint manufacturer is happy. However in bike paintwork things move more slowly unless you have a spray booth oven to speed things up. Often complex designs and multiple colours mean that you can't put all the paint down in a short period of time, one colour one day another colour the next day etc so adhesion can be a problem. So sometimes if I'm faced with multiple colours or layers I may just give them a covering of clear then leave until I'm ready to carry on, when I'm ready to proceed the clear is flatted/sanded with a scotch pad to give the next colour/layer a key or grip. Ideally, as soon as the last colour goes on it needs to be lacquered. Also 2k lac doesn't like to adhere to vinyl decals. Sometimes a stone chip on a decal can cause the clear coat to start to lift, high pressure jet washes can lift lacquers too. I always advise people to steer well clear of jet washes cos more often than not its gonna end up costing you There's a few other reasons but the first explanation is more often than not the most likely but without seeing the panels it's hard for me to say. Hope this helps matey www.fbimagery.co.uk THE Specialists in Motorcycle Paintwork
Thanks, top information, the only place my 2K has adhered is the decals,once it started peeling I got the air gun and managed to blow most of it away, I shall strip each back and repaint, then re 2K as soon as paint is dry to touch.
