Thats fine how you have it. The unit is completely waterproof so it can withstand what the elements can throw at it. To reduce the sensitivity of the unit is very simple. Start with the ignition off, then turn on while holding the button in on the back and the display will count down from 5-0 when it reaches 0 release the button. First it will show you if you are in C or E. Press and hold the button briefly and it will go to the next step. Release when it does. This is the sensitivity setting. It changes in increments of 5% so press and release the button to change this and it cycles upwards. the higher the number the easier and more sensitive it becomes. I would recommend changing this by 1 step of 5% at a time. Then when at the desired setting press and hold again. This takes you to the kill time. You can change the setting here using the same method or press and hold to skip this step. Set up complete It will only take 2 mins to do so if you do not like it it is very quick and simple to change back. Im told we will be getting a new sub section so all Q's and A's will be able to go there which will make it alot easier for all I think
I have a PCV. When installing the HM, do i connect it using the connectors on the PCV or under the tank etc??
If you have the Plus shifter it goes to the Plug top coils and has nothing to do with the PC 5. This is a stand alone shifter Does the PC5 also go to the coils or the injectors?
do all quickshifters do the exhaust pop on the gear change? always remember the road race guys bikes over here doing it and it did sound good...probably not good for the cans.
I have my unit set to C and E as I keep swapping between std and race pattern shift, is this ok or do I have to take the seat off everytime and set to either C or E ??? (which is a pain as it takes longer than it takes to change the mode) I have not had any problems but thouht seeing as your on here to answer our (silly) Questions I may as well ask Thanks Jamie
The only silly question is the one not asked! Its better to run one or the other as it gives then internal processor an easier time to work on giving the best shift. Saying that running both will not cause any issues other than the bike MAY stall when going from N to 1st and it will obviously be cutting the IGN on the normal downshifts but to answer the problem no, it wont cause any harm or damage to the bike or the shifter. My advice would be to relocate the control box as pics above so you can change it every time but its not essential Hope this answers your question.
My mounting braket has a hole in the back so you can press the button Im patening it too......lol Even if it does look the TenKates
95% is way to high. I suggest dropping down to 55% and trying a static test as per the manual. If it takes more effort than you would normally apply to the gear lever then raise the sens % by another 5% until it cuts the engine during this test and your happy with the amount of effort it takes You will probably be getting false shifts on the shifter randomly at this setting. Yuor bottom rose joint looks a little more twisted than the top but as long as you can twist the sensor and it twists on the rose joints it will be fine.
Have you done many OEM rear sets mate? They are always around 95-100% as the shift is so easy the HM needs to be set very high, turning the sensor 90/180deg often does nothing as that's what's been suggested to me by HMR in the past..? I've had around 6 OEM RR8s that always end up with the sens flat out or it just does not detect the shift, lower and the gear selector remains loaded and then the kill forces the shift...if your with me.
No I have not just I have not heard the mechs saying this. You will have fitted many more than me so I will go with you on this one I will enquire about this on tues as im having a long weekend for a change. Rotating the shifter I guess they can only be checking if the wire is looking to be coming out of the side, pointing away from or towards the bike rather than flowing in line with the rod if that makes sense as that will have a slight effect on the sens due to the way it is built inside. Still learning all the time
It's worth asking mate as a big,ish problem with stock rear sets, CBRs are so easy to shift into the next gear with stock pegs etc they always end up round 95ish, it's NOT stopped any from working correctly and more often or not people change to aftermarket race style rear sets and then MUCH more effort is required to shift and the sensitivity can be lowered, one customer with rather large feet did cause me a problem as with high levels of sens any motion around the peddle can cause engine cuts, if the boot is rested on the peddle the whole thing can go a little crazy, I moved the peddle up high for his large feet and it was 100 times better however he still has not changed the rear sets and runs at high sens, like you say with high sens it's possible to get false shifts.. Hence what prompted me to ask..
This can be another reason a shifter does not feel or appear to be operating correctly, having the lever incorrectly positioned without really realising When we do installs here we always get the rider to sit on the bike in their natural riding position and ask them if it feels comfortable to shift both ways. Most times they realise the lever was poorly positioned before and was much better after this simple 5 second adjustment Looking good black devil, thats what I want I think.
Same mate, always setup rear sets for customers and observe if they work correctly, me personally I like my shift leaver over my boot and the brake peddle under it in a normal position.
Arthur can you get me a new shift rod its currently 130 mm long ? As the one I got is cut down as far as I could get after fitting the Gilles rearsets and I might need it reduced to 120mm ish and there is no thread left !!
