Fitted QS back on bike and it seems fine wont be alble to really test it until I can get it on track fitted a new gear shift rod as the other one I cut down to fit the rear sets I had and it wasn't a great fit . So at this point not really sure what was wrong with it just hope it was a faulty plug or something just hope it doesn't play up in my first race mind you if Jimbo beats me I could blame it on that . Set it to 55 sensitivity and 60 kill time see how that works .
I've also been having a few issues with the HM QS on my race bike of late, bit of a long story for a first post but there you go.. Kind of a thread hijack to so sorry about that. Few months ago it would regularly cut out on me accelerating out of corners for an unknown reason, was not fun especially during a race. Fiddled with all the settings and feet were always well clear of the lever. Nothing changed. Sat on on the dyno for a day and in the morning my tuner could not get the bike to miss a beat loading it heavily in all gears etc. Then in the afternoon he rang me saying my bike broke his laptop (he was sitting on it then it started cutting out on him intermittently throwing all his stuff everywhere) Pulled the seat off and the LCD was too hot to touch as it kept falling under the tank and a finger weight on the lever would cut the ignition no mater what the sensitivity was set to. Ran the bike with the QS disconnected and it was fine. Assuming the heat played with the sensors I have since re connected the QS and re located the LCD under the tail, well away from any heat source. The QS seems to work in the opposite way now. First couple of warm up sessions in the morning it will hardly work and I have to dip the throttle manually to shift. Once the whole bike is nice and hot (Normally by the 2nd or 3rd session out) it works perfectly and does so for the rest of the day. Again have fiddled with the settings throughout to no avail. Anything in particular I could be missing? Our local season is over for 4ish months so want to get it sorted over the next few tuning sessions if I could. Will shoot an email to HM as well. Cheers! Dan
How long have you had it fitted to the bike as mine had been on for 18 months without a problem . The first part of your problem is identical to what I was having with the spark been cut and am not convinced it's fixed but can't really test it until I get it on track .Cant say the LCD was getting that hot though and it's located near the starter motor .Speak to Lee as he was the one who I spoke to. Can't really say much more they tested the loom and couldn't find a fault and even fitted it to a bike with no faults and it worked fine , I refitted it and it seems to work on my bike with the back wheel lifted with no problems let me know what lee says about yours but I guess you will need to send it to them but I hope they will have a good look at them as there is 3 people now from this forum that are having the same problem.
It's been on the bike for ~12 months. Had a Dynojet one prior to that and it never worked properly. Will see what they say
I know this is a Blade page, but i just need help. Mine does the same, as soon as you get up to 10k on my triumph 675r (full race) it starts cutting out. Running the HM down on about 30 sensitivity eases it and still shifts fine. Bridged the loom and the bike ran perfect right up the rev range, soon as the HM is plugged in it starts playing up. Its doing my head in. I tried a different rear set and set it up perfectly and was a lot smoother, but still didnt fix it. I have a CBR 1000 and that works fine. Any help would be appreciated. I
