Important Notice - Please Read If You own an ABS 2009 Onwards Model

I would occasionally get a flashing light, but usually turning the ignition off then on resolved it. When that didn't resolve it, charging the battery helped.
I bet in the 6 years I owned it, I only got the flashing abs light about 10 times in 27,000 miles.

 

I've said this elsewhere, the owner's handbook for my 2010 says a difference in lever function may occur at low speed. I'm taking that to be where the ABS switches on/off. I believe its 8 kph or 5mph approx. I haven't experienced it at speed(thank God) but my earlier post tells of a hot day anomaly. Turning it into a Non-Abs is only a matter of removing the hoses and carefully draining all the brake fluid, closing the open rigid pipe ends with unions or plastic bungs then fitting hoses from a NOn ABS model. The difficult bit is removing all the ABS kit. I have yet to read from anyone whether the brake performance is the same because I think the front master cylinder is different? Perhaps someone can reply.

 

So if i leave all plumbing, pumps and abs ecu connected without removing anything just closing the pipe ends i cam convert to non abs without any issues?

 

Nope, MS is the same but caliper pistons are different. According to my 2008-15 manual STD is 32mm, ABS is 30mm, rear is same for both at 14mm and caliper at 30mm.

 

The front calipers on the 2012 abs model have two size pistons in each caliper. 32mm and 30mm

 

Didn't want to mislead about conversion. Its been documented elsewhere in other posts about what needs to come off. I gather you can remove the ABS fuse to turn the system off and blank the ends. Can't remember if the dash warning light stays on, though. Dig through the other posts. I guess a change in calipers would be needed. At least then bleeding would be a 5 min job. Is it really a problem that warrants the conversion?

 

Meant to say, when the dash warning light came on on that v hot day I didn't notice any difference in braking. A bit weird.

 

Thats why am asking if it is a "feature" and not a problem. So it seems that the abs functions the way i have described it and is not a problem.

 

PM sent

 

AFAIK the calipers are exactly the same abs/non abs. both are 32/30.

AFAIK the calipers are exactly the same abs/non abs.

you can force non abs by simply pulling the fuse no replumb required but you will still have to sort out the ABS warning light

 

My apologies to all !!! The calipers are the same for both, they just have 2 different size pistons. I re read the stripdown and realised the error, sorry.

 

My back brake is rubbish too. Like standing on a brick regardless of the metallic or non metallic pads I've tried. Just about enough to feather for a bend or hold in traffic.

 

Just spotted this bit of optimistic wording by the salesman....cunning new tactics maybe to shift them

 

Why buy that when you can have @CharlieR85 's?

 

Tell you what, if he'd had it up for sale earlier I'd have snapped it up. There wasn't a decent non abs 16 Repsol I liked in sight at the time

 

Hi everyone, I'm a new member here - looking for a 2012+ blade.
If I am inspecting a prospective purchase that has ABS fitted are there any checks i can do to avoid future issues? Or is it just pot luck if I pick a good one or not?

 

Pot luck from most of the posts I've read. But I haven't had an ABS bike of the problem years.

 

IMHO I’d say its like running round in a minefield in big heavy shoes - not a case of if, just when

 

Well if it is a good deal then get it, you can remove the system when it "fails".

 

Although it is possible to remove the ABS, it is best avoided at all costs.