How's that going to damage the bike? Voltage is important... They're both 12V. The amount of current the battery can supply is obviously important too... But that just means that if it's got a higher CCA rating the starter motor won't slow down as the voltage drops (Which could cause damage). I've never heard of an electric motor being damaged because the battery COULD provide the power required... (It's kind of like damaging your house because it's plugged into the national grid rather than a 4kW generator). H
Doug what was up with the gearbox mate? Looks like the problem with mine could also be gearbox, when I find out which parts have gone on mine would you be interested in selling the bits from your box if they are good?
Hey Martin, I've not actually had time to take the gearbox out and have a look at full extent of the damage, as trying to get the new engine started was priority before anything, it was pretty obvious when I was riding it that it had gone as I could only run in 3rd and 6th, only had to do 300 miles like that lol I have a complete gearbox in bits sitting in the garage that I had bought to shove in the old engine to sell on, so if ur really stuck just take some pics and send them my way and I can see if I've got them there (not even opened the box with the spare gearbox bits yet) lol I'm starting to lose the will to live with my new engine and trying to get bike started and very tempted to strip her for bits soon and there's a hrc gearbox and STM slipper clutch on her What year is ur blade aswel? As I'm sure the gearboxes differ a wee bit from the 04/05 to 06/07 can't remember off top off my head but I might be talking out my arse! Scooby Been at it a bit more and I'm getting 12v on each connection for the coils and when it turns over it only drops to 10 and I'm getting no spark still, so it doesn't seem like I'm getting a pulse generated which looks like comes from ecu, tried another ecu off eBay that got told worked still nothing (but ya never know buying second hand stuff on eBay I suppose) I've checked all the coils and spark plugs which are fine, checked and swapped out crank shaft and cam shaft sensors aswel and tested them also for resistance against the spares and the same, I'm really starting to think maybe short in loom, going to unplug ecu and do a continuity check from each sensor and plug to ecu plugs, did fi codes aswel and only came up with old codes of stuff we had disconnected before, i tried doing the reset like the manual said but can't get it to reset the codes! Any other leads would be brill guys as I'd hate to break her but its looking like its gonna end up like that as I can't afford to throw her into a Honda garage and the I've Only heard bad reviews from the local bike shop in Inverness sadly! Cheers again guys for all the help
I'm no expert but considering the amount of stuff you have tried I would say its got to be a split in the loom somewhere, its just finding it that's the problem. I have now found myself a gearbox so hopefuly I'm sorted but thanks
What year Blade? ECU...........Did it come with the keys ie the matched set for the ECU You say you have voltage to ecu.........is it capable of carrying ampage?,will it light a 21W bulb? using the ECU's earth from the loom? Have you tried giving the ECU a feed 12v and earth from another sorces ie another battery? Not sure but Mr Honda use to fit earthing connector plugs in the loom and then tape over them,the 929 & 954 have 2 of these,has yours? , these corroded and then dont give a good earth to the ECU & Coil sticks. Have you checked at the ECU (with plug still connected) the pulse to and from the coil sticks? Side Stand ,Tilt switch,On/off button are typical problem area so have you double checked the wiring,checked continuity along the wires and checked it to earth aswell? Have you tried to start it with the Alternator plug disconnected from the Rec (3 yellow wires ) I,ll have to read this thread from the start and see if I can think of something constructive to add. I have a m8 hows sh*thot on bike electrics.....if I can pin him down I,ll ask.
Right o My m8 said that Mr Honda always fits these plugs and tapes over them,the most common plug to give problems is the one in the loom near the seat/rear tail section although he has sometimes found them lurking around the tank area. They look like a load of earths go into the plug with nothing comming out tuther side. Also............have you got GOOD voltage to the coil sticks?..................MUST be BATTERY voltage and not 9,10 volts.
Hi haggler, The bike is a 2004, the ecu I got did have he microchip and it primed fuel tank etc, but seeing it didn't work I went back to using my old ecu again. I've checked and I get around 12.5v on sticks when ignition on and when the bike is turning over I get about 9.5-10v. Speaking to Perth honda motorcycles today(really helpful bunch) I've eliminated a lot, they said that the only things that would stop the spark would be the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors. I don't think the ecu is giving a pulse to the coils to tell it when to spark, and the signal to tell the ecu when to tell the coils to fire come from the two sensors, I've ran continuity checks from both sensors to the ecu to make sure it's not a broken wire somewhere and they are both fine and I've done voltage and resistance checks on both sensors and they are also fine I've even tried other sensors aswel as I have a few spare. I have that yellow box with a lot of wires running to it, but I really have no idea what it is for. The earths that run from the ecu are all bolted on the right of the engine near the 3 plugs, camshaft sensor, brake sensor and the plug for the coils. All this is on a wee frame which is also bolted. I'm just finding it hard to understand as the bike wouldn't start before I changed the engine aswel but I never bothered with it then as the gearbox was making such a noise when it used to run so I thought it was something wrong with engine. The Honda garage was saying that I can get people to test the ecu's for 40pound so I'm going to get my old one tested and if that's broken get my new one tested aswel to make sure I've not been eBay scammed lol But if they are ok, it has to be a short in the loom or something! Thanks again for ur help bud! Kind regards Doug
Flip the cover off the plug..............its a junction plug for Mr Honda .............for dia faults.They go green with corrosion and fall apart inside.Do a continuity test of the wires at this point in n out of the plug.I have to agrea with the Honda guys but getting 9-10v @ the coils is not good,the coils are voltage hungry and I,ve often seen low voltage causing non starting.Have you tried cranking the starter from another battery?so that the coil voltage remains at 12 volts? Also......the clump of earths......use a jump start lead and clamp to the earths and attach the other end to the battery so that a good earth is garrantied.Did you disconnect the 3 yellow alternator wires> it could be that theres a short thus dragging your voltage down ?
