Miserable output on dyno today

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by dmc12, Mar 22, 2019.

  1. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    I think the flap opens with the bike in gear after 5000 rpm you would hear a different induction noise
    It's easy to disconnect
    www.rougeracing.org/flap.htm
    See below :oops:
     
    #21 Selmer50mark, Mar 26, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2019
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  2. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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  3. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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  4. auag

    auag Active Member

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    The flap in the airbox is spring loaded and though open when off, or idling in neutral, will close once in gear. So long as the throttle movements are slow it'll remain closed till about 3500revs then go fully open. Any sudden throttle will open it fully.
    It's easy to disconnect the plug from the ECU that controls the vacuum for operating the flap, if you want to be certain, but I'd not worry about that.
    The dyno graph's AFR nosedives at 6000revs which is where the second set of injectors join in.
    So I still think it's being over fuelled and would investigate the fuel rail pressure.
    The injectors just open and close, and like the air flow nothing is metered. The injectors' mass flow, if they're in good condition, is only dependant on the pressure difference across them.
     
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  5. hitch

    hitch Elite Member

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  6. auag

    auag Active Member

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    It looks like the same piece of none sense as the 04-07s come equipped with but I'd need to test it to be sure.
    I wired a test light to mine to confirm what it actually did, which was nothing, other than add complication to work around a noise test demanded by God knows who.
    The laughable bit is it doesn't even throw an error code up when disconnected or not working.
     
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  7. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Certainly the same as the 08 - 11s, which I noted during a recent fairing changeover. This thread has got me wondering about plugging or removing it now. :rolleyes:;).
     
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  8. raphael

    raphael Elite Member

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    I should have removed it when I blanked the pair valves, but got a fairing change coming up so maybe a second chance?
     
  9. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    Just pull the vac pipe off and blank the rubber pipe with a 5 mm screw then tie back ..... sorted no cost
     
    #29 Selmer50mark, Mar 29, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2019
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  10. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Auag! Quick question... what's responsible for determining the fuel pressure? Pump/distributor/ecu/map?

    Update on where I'm at - I did the flapper mod (by removing the vacuum pipe rather than electrical connection - removes another variable at least) and have booked myself in next Thursday at Cooperized in Feltham. They've got a Dynojet rather than a Fuchs and I spoke to Ken there who started the business up back in the day and seems to know his shit.

    So I'll take the bike in there and we'll try to get to the bottom of it!

    Ken had a question about exhaust valves on these - not sure if that would have already been dealt with in the process of removing the stock exhaust? Or is it still something to look into? (I don't actually know where it's located on these :confused: - forgive me)
     
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  11. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Sounds like the best action you could take in the circumstances.

    Presuming you're talking about the exhaust 'servo' valves, and presuming you have a 2008 - 2016 model, yes, it would generally be dispensed with when removing stock exhaust. This video is of CBR600R but shows the cables etc that you should now find are not attached to your exhaust.

     
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  12. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    I've never seen any cables like that - or indeed a servo motor - whilst rooting around. Bike is an RR6 though so does that make a difference?
     
  13. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    From your pictures yours has been removed, probably when the yoshi was fitted
     
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  14. auag

    auag Active Member

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    As mentioned above, if you've an after market silencer then they don't usually have an exhaust valve, so it isn't in the equation.
    The exhaust valve operation is configured in the ECU error code library and would show on the dash if the loop wasn't live and talking to the ECU. If you don't have a code showing then either it's linked out and/or your aftermarket silencer doesn't have an exhaust recirculation valve, as OEM would do.
    If you look under the seat the servo motor is under the plastic moulding next to the battery and you could follow where the cables would be.
    I understand the OEM exhaust valve does have a useful role in matching the headers to the cam profiles and other than at full chat does help fatten the torque curve by creating back pressure.
    WRT the fuel pressure: the fuel pump develops head which varies with flow.
    The injectors need a constant head and so a pressure control valve moderates pressure as demand rises and falls. The surplus is recirculated back to the tank. Bike fuel injection systems are very basic. They cannot meter air or fuel mass so need programming, that's what remapping on dynos try to do.
    Therefore, if your bike has too little or too much fuel, or air, it doesn't know and so can't compensate.. It can make small compensations by inferring air temperature and therefore density but basically it's stupid and just does what the fuel map tells it to do.
    The good news is it's not difficult to resolve.
    My RR7 was remapped with an OEM exhaust on a very conservative dyno with 151bhp at the rear tyre and 79ftlbs. That was about 6% above the pre remap run.
     
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  15. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for that @auag - very good overview! So essentially it's unlikely that there's anything mechanically going wrong, and whatever is going on can (probably) be resolved through a map?
     
  16. auag

    auag Active Member

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    Well there's lots of unlikely things it could be but I'd swop the fuel pump PCV first, unless your new dyno man has a better idea, and he may well have.
    I'm not sure where the PCV resides, have to look in the manual. It might be built into the pump assembly.
    The main reason I'd look there first is your measured AFR dropping precipitously around where the big injectors join in.
    See what your new man says.
     
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  17. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    Took the bike to Cooperized in Feltham today. Ken who set the place up used to build 750bhp turbo engines for drag bikes so knows his stuff!

    Changes made since previous 117bhp run on the Fuchs: cladding removed from around baffle (of probable no consequence), and flapper mod (of probable very low consequence).

    First run of the day - 106bhp (at the wheel). So maybe this dyno is 10bhp more conservative than the last one, assuming my changes haven't robbed any top end power (can't see how they would have done). AFR chart not really helpful as the sensor gets so hot it's not accurate.

    Have a look in the airbox, discover the trumpets underneath the secondary injectors are loose and flapping about. That won't help. Do them up. Disconnect Power Commander 3 altogether and try again - 120bhp.

    Remove baffle - discover that the nose of baffle is ridiculously small. Dyno again - 138bhp. This ridiculous baffle is robbing *18*bhp.

    IMG_0059.PNG

    Reconnect Power Commander and do multiple tuning runs - finally get to 146bhp. More like it...

    Saw the tiny end off baffle and re-insert.

    IMG_0060.PNG

    Now the baffle only robs 3bhp - total rear wheel oomph of 143bhp. And a bit more torque.

    Got back on the bike, and it feels as properly wheelspinningly naughty as it did when I first got it. Here's what I think happened... :oops:

    Two months ago the bike was fast. Thinking I was smart, I got the baffle so I'd pass noise tests on track. I put it in. At the same time downloaded the yoshi map from the Power Commander website and loaded it into the PC3, overwriting whatever was on there (which I think was a custom map :( ).
    These two dumb moves took me backwards. But at least now I've got a baffle *and* decent power... and the trumpets are tightened up. And the flapper mod is done. :rolleyes:

    So to conclude this thread - what was wrong with the bike when I started this thread:

    1) ludicrously restrictive baffle
    2) bad map (or unsuitable, for whatever reason).
    3) Loose trumpets.

    And that's it. I doubt there were any issues resolved by the flapper mod.

    Here's the chart - I've overlaid the first run (106bhp) in red (ignore different horizontal scale, the verticals are lined up). The final baffle in/out runs are the blue and grey ones. Given that this dyno seems to be 10% more conservative than the last one, a 146 output on this dyno would be 160ish on a less conservative dyno - so this definitely seems like it's in the right ballpark now. Job done. :)

    Dyno_composite_Cooperized2.jpg
     
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  18. Selmer50mark

    Selmer50mark God Like

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    Sorted;)
    wonder what a standard RR7 puts out
     
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  19. nigelrb

    nigelrb Elite Member

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    Good result on this! Amazed that a baffle will rob 18bhp - but the proof's on paper.
     
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  20. dmc12

    dmc12 Well-Known Member

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    Well in theory a pipe and map should give you 10-15bhp but given that’s also the variance between dynos it’s hard to tell unless you were to make the mods and do them back to back.

    Also I don’t know whether it’s the case with bikes but cars lose some ponies through ignition system (dizzy/leads/plugs) deterioration over time - now these bikes are 12+ years old that may be a factor too unless everything has been recently refreshed?
     

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