Just remember..........................further back and down............bigger distance from gearlever which cant be adjusted..............hope you,ve got big feet!!!
Great stuff gents, i had a look at my rear brake arrangement and what you can do is pull the cable back through and then route it along the front and it tucks nicely between the frame and the fairing. This then gives a few more cm of free cable and i managed to move mine back around the 50mm and down around 40mm that me and Alan were talking about. So its all do able for sure. Alan I made up some templates/brackets out of thick plastic tonight and below is a pic of it on the bike, god it feels so much better on the knees like this and it may even be strong enough in this thick strong plastic. The reach to the gearlever is fine i just adjusted it down.
How close is the back of footrest to the fairing Mark. What sort of plastic is it? Dunno if I would trust a piece of plastic to take my weight!!!
Yep i know what you mean they are good as templates, the type of plastic im unsure of just had some lying around but its flippen strong stuff I was bouncing (15stone) up and down on them and it was fine. I thought using this plastic was easier to make the template it was easier to get the shape right but think it needs to be transfered onto metal which the guy at work can do i think but im amazed how strong it is. Using this thickness of plastic around 10mm means it steps the right footrest out enough to clear the fairing, the one thing i needed to do was to cut a little step out of the plastic so that the rear brake light switch clamp could be missed easy enough. Do you want me to take them off and take pictures of them?? Some thought needs to go into the heatsheild clamp..
No i am just going with what i have here on the plastic, this was made before i saw your pic im not bothering having multiple adjustments just the one fit will do me now that i know this is so comfy. I will see what Steve says but i may end up calling on your services if i dont like what he suggests. The more you can make the better eh plus we can fine tune the fitting?? I think you need to use thick metal simply to give the space out to clear the fairing, its fine on the left hand side but the right needs this thickness. Maybe it could be spaced out simply using a spacer between the frame and the new bracket. I will remove and measure it all out and post some pics with dimensions.
Easy enough to make two or three sets as one. On mine I have used 20mm spacers to clear the frame as my brackets actually cover the frame.
Just done some more drawings. If I use 100mm by 10mm alloy bar I can make the lowest setting down 110mm, back 55mm from standard. I cam make the highest setting up 8mm and back 45mm from standard. Can you both tell me what are the max settings you will need, pleeeze. I can go lower/higher and further back, but will need to buy wider flat bar! Any setting is possible, just need to buy different width flat bar.
Alan, Mine as it stands are back 50mm and down 30mm and its a nice feel, sorry if i reported differently yesterday:-( These i made yesterday are made out of Delrin Plastic and its 13mm thick so steps it out off the frame nicely for the brake lever side. I think you would struggle to get much more than 30mm down on the brake side without having to alter the rear brake switch wiring. Like i was saying it feels perfect for me in this setup 50 back 30 down. Its pouring with rain here today so hopefully get the bike into the workshop and pull these adapters off tonight to photograph.
You can buy mounting plates, I've fitted a few pairs of these Speedycom Performance Ltd... Just for your interest guys, not dissing MWs work at all.
Hi Arthur, like Alan was saying i dont think these off the shelf brackets allow for shifting down and dont think they go to the movement levels we are talking about. Good link all the same so thanks.. I did try and ask these people just to confirm our thoughts but they said they didnt no so not much help :-(
The ones in the link are also extremely expensive. I'll go with Marks 50mm back & 30mm down as I can't measure up properly with the brake switch as it is. He's done a much better job than me at moving the peg to find how far it can go. unless you want to go around 300mm down and add jockey wheels so I have my own stabilizers :-D Seriously, I'll be happy with any variations from the percieved maximum if the brackets come with range of positions, then I can find the best one for me.
OK .I'll start with 50 back and 30 down plus adjustment either way. Will make 6mm templates first. Will make a start tomorrow.
Pre production prototype is finished. It's 6mm not 10mm, just to try footrest positions. There are six possible at the moment.; ,
Thats looking good Alan, i have to say the plastic ones worked a treat for me today did around 120miles and what a difference its so much more comfortable. Anyone wanting to be more comfy on the Blade then drop megawatt a PM to get a price cant stress how much of a difference its made lowering and moving back the pegs..
Thanks Mark, must have a play with some Delrin! Just had a long chat with Gary (Muffking) and will be posting the prototype to him tomorrow!
Think i will just stick with these ones i have made the now, as i have just managed to buy a pair of LSL tour match kit for the front end Spiegler Performance Parts - Tour Match Kit I will keep my eye out here to see how it all goes..
I know that I am resurrecting a long dead thread but how did the people involved get on with the new foot peg position? Is the gentleman (Megawatt) who made the plates make any more for sale? I would definitely buy a set if they were available. I ride an 05 Blade so this mod would be spot on. Were the Tour Match handlebars any good as well? Thanks Graham
