My Winter Project :-)

Discussion in 'Mods, Upgrades, Accessories and Products' started by lambchops, Sep 15, 2013.

  1. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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  2. Skippy79

    Skippy79 Active Member

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    looking good mate! how long until you get her fired up?
     
  3. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks Skippy, getting there now :)
     
  4. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    CBR 2012 Speed Sensor Wiring Diag.jpg
    CBR 2012 Speed Sensor 2 Wiring Diag.jpg
    CBR 2012 Speed Sensor 3 Wiring Diag.jpg

    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Skippy79

    Skippy79 Active Member

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    where did you get the manual from sinewave?? haven't found one on the net yet and might be needing one soon for torque specs... unless you want to can those few pages over ;)
     
  6. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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  7. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks very much Sinewave your a star!!

    regard starting it Skippy going to stip it down and rebuild it properly before I start it, as will have to replace all the fuel system orings etc, dont want to do it twice. :)
     
  8. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Any idea what the DTC setup is for on the clocks Sinewave?

    Thanks for your photos it comfirms what I thought, the sensor outputs 0-5v pulses to the clocks the same as the RR4 so.... the RR4 sensor should work.. I think im ready to try it now :)
     
  9. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    The sensor will work, you will need a speedo healer to correct the speed as the number of pulses is different I think you'll find (25 on rr4/6) also the fuel level sender voltage is different from the old model to new too so not sure how the low fuel will read this way round. Other features should be fine other than the gear indicator as you know and the fact you will need to set the redline with the shift lights as you also know. :)
     
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  10. daz1

    daz1 Active Member

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    hi mate you may have a problem with were you mounted the reg/rectifier i did a r1/r6 seat unit and subframe change and had to remount the reg/rect so i put it under the seat as you have done and it burnt out after a week due to it not getting cool air to keep its temp down they get quit hot so remounted it to the outside of the undertray were the flowing air could get to it and it solved the problem you may not have a problem its just something to think about i went throu 2 before i sussed it out hope this helps mate cracking build by the way
     
  11. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks Arthur thats perfect, the cbr600 clocks I had on before were out also for this very reason.. Will add a healer to the to buy list :) fuel reserve will have to see how that works out, with the capacity reduction of the tank also in the reserve part of the tank it could be interesting :)

    Thanks for the input Daz regarding the rec, the good news is it sat right against the alloy which will act as a huge heat sink, I may even mount it with some of that gel they use for PC CPU heat sinks to increase the heat transference.. I could also add a 12v PC fan if I need too :)
     
  12. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    Thermal compound will defo massively improve heat transfer, the only way I can see of getting the low fuel sender to work correctly would be to change the sensor in the tank I am looking at a similar problem and may seek to make up a small circuit if I can chat up my old time electronic genius way better than me. I don't have a new and old pump side by side but it would seem the problem is the resistance difference between the two.

    All of my info is based on the fact the HM dash does not function on the older model, the light just stays on, however the HM lets you switch off the error, it's odd if the new dash works as clearly Honda have a different way of tripping the light than HM, as far as I know the light is triggered when the resistance is low, when it goes high the light goes off, hence why when disconnected the light should go out.
     
    #292 arthurbikemad, Dec 31, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2014
  13. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks for the input Arthur, that is quite a narrow volt range isn't it... Will look through the rr4 manual didn't see anything regarding voltages to test the fuel reserve activation from what I can remember... perhaps sinewave could be so kind as to check the 2012 manual again for me ;)
     
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  14. Freedom of choice

    Freedom of choice Elite Member

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    I have read through the whole thread and watched all the video’s today. Despite what my other half thinks, it was a great way to spend the day whilst waiting for the sun to go over the yard arm and the first new years cork can be pulled.

    Fantastic and interesting work Lamb Chop, thanks for sharing it with us.
     
  15. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks very much Freedom, my wife started watching my vids but I banned her as she couldn’t stop laughing haha and not for the right reasons, she thinks im enough of a nerd anyway without me adding to it :)

    Arthur I looked through the RR4 manual, can’t see anything related to voltage ranges for the fuel reserve light just a made or open connection, you sure it’s not just an on or off switch?

    Ive ordered an american non cal ECU last week so hopefully it wont take to long to arrive so I can power the loom up and see whats what
     
  16. arthurbikemad

    arthurbikemad A very helpful Gent

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    Yep :) If you look at the diagrams the RR8+ sender unit is shown as a sensor, my guess is its a float switch and that's what presents the problem, the RR4+ is shown as a potentiometer, I've metered one not so long back and if I remember rightly when connected to the dash it reads as I said. I know other companies that have this same problem when fitting an aftermarket dash to RR4+, I hope to find out more in the next few weeks like I say, as for the SP VCC as you may have seen the sensor is powered from the rear light on the RR4 and the clock from the RR12 I would guess its 12v but would be wise to check, think the output is pulsed 5v, my guess would be its named as SP VCC as a marker from the clocks in other words they felt no need to name it before.
     
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  17. Clarkey

    Clarkey Member

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    All this electronic talk I haven't got a clue what you are all talking about !!!! I had enough trouble just changing my brake lines over and bleeding my brakes
    just shows what can be done if you put your mind to it keep it up
     
  18. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks Arthur, worst case I run without a fuel reserve light and zero my miles at fill up time which I allways do anyway.. Looks like if the connector is unplugged no light on the RR4 so hope thats the case with the 2012 clocks.. If you find out more info or your buddy can knock up a circuit then let me know ;)

    I have this evening connected the 2012 connector to the RR4 clock loom and tidyed it all up and plumbed in my free gear indicator. Now however its time for beer :)

    res443.jpg

    Oh and yes I know im missing the whoops youve dropped it sensor :)
     
    #298 lambchops, Dec 31, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2013
  19. lambchops

    lambchops Elite Member

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    Thanks very much clarkey, I didn’t know anything about the wiring of these bikes when I started but have spent far too much time looking at the diagrams and picking the brains of more knowledgeable people than myself :)
     
  20. sinewave

    sinewave God Like

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    Off on the Piss now LC [​IMG]


    Will email ya the DTC stuff tomorrow when I've finished feeling Ill! [​IMG]
     

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