Well did some more yesterday, bleed the clutch (wow that took time with a dry system) had to undo the line until gravity let the fluid reach the clutch slave thing... Not sure what you call it clutch calliper for want of a better word.. So clutch is now operational. topped up with motul complete coolant put about 2 litres in thinking that would allow me to warm her through without boiling but the bloody thing still pissed everywhere at 101c.. I've drained the entire system now and am replacing with Evans coolant Monday, fed up with it.. Got a 20% discount so may as well give it ago and should be plenty left over so will flog that on to help cover the costs. Will order the chain today, d.i.d professional 520 112 link for 80 quid on the bay so will get that unless anyone has any better suggestions?
As for the bleeding mate. Get yourself a quick bleeder. Basically it pulls the fluid thru using suction from the clutch slave cylinder/caliper end. I got 1 a couple of weeks back and it really works a treat. Cost me all of £17 or £18.
Thanks for the link Colin I will get one of those as the Aprilia rear caliper is a pig to bleed and needs improving.. It's as good as I could get it but it's not great.. Cheers
Did wonder about that rad mate, Evans will change the game but I'd not think of it as a fix, a secondary rad would be the answer, get your skates on I am keen for an eyeball at the cafe, if you need a hand anytime as many have offered give me a shout, even if you wish to pop in for a cup of tea and a chat
Thanks Arthur, not even got as far as seeing if the rad can cool it yet just boiling over when it hits 100c at the moment before the rad fan kicks in.. Too much dam water in it. Decided even if it needs a secondary rad can drain the Evans coolant and catch it and reuse. Just annoyed its boiled over twice now on idle before the engine has even got hot enough for the fan to come on! Need some proper coolant and no point buying anything other than Evans specially as they have offered me 20% discount for some publicity in the mag... Will end up with my readers special being one big advert at this rate!! Haha Thanks for the offer of help your a gent, will defo pop up and see you for a chin wag when it's done anyway
put a manual fan on it and turn it on before it hits 100° with the fan on it should drop in temp, if it doesn't then you will need another radiator or a secondary...
Yes not a bad idea skippy, I've had the fan running with a 12v feed anyway could have rigged it like that couldn't I ... I think it will cool on idle in this weather when started from cold, when the thermostat opens takes quiet awhile to reach 100c its not like it up there in minutes. I guess the test will be after a good hammering mid summer and then when you get stuck in traffic!
Have you checked that the thermostat is working ok......... Is it the same setup you had on the old engine.... Shouldn't really be too much difference.
I assume he has done so, if you see he's vid's then you'll know that the thermostat opens up as he nearly burnt his hand Maybe he should see if the bike is firing on all 4 cylinders and grab hold of the headers
They do run very hot!! For example I have been setting up my dash today, after 3-4 mins of idle the bike is up to temp, another three or four mins and it's over temp and fans running flat out, it's not even that hot and that's with a full size rad on a 07, if the rad can not loose the heat it will boil simple as that, you could fit an aftermarket stat, I have used many on kit cars and bikes, that way you can set the temp you want the fan to trip at, if it were a Tuneboy compatible ECU you could have changed it to run where you like and turn off where you like, but....it's not....lol
Is the rad cap OK and/or the seat the seal sits on?. I expect you've checked for "Head Gasket" bubbles?
Your all scarring me now with talk of head gaskets etc... Bike takes a good 10 mins of idle to reach 100c. I must say checking header heat is a good idea not done that, job for when the new coolant is in. I think my issue with it boiling is because I have to much water in the system and not enough coolant.. If the head gasket had gone and was leaking coolant to the engine what would the symptoms be? Water system pressuring up and hoses getting very hard? Rad cap seal seems good haggler, also when it does boil all the water goes down to the header tank nothing leaking from the rad cap. Also after boiling draws water back from the res to replace what's been lost in the engine when cooling so seems it's well sealed.
Like I say it's about heat build up, water is the most effective coolant around, we only add additives to help water tension, lubrication, anti freezing, anti corrosion and other factors needed in a cooling system, water on its own is fine as a coolant and very effective. A system is pressurised to increase the boiling point of the water, the system design should be capable of moving the heat from the engine, cooling the water and sending it back to remove more heat. If the head gasket was to fail its pressure from the cylinders escapes and pressurises the cooling system, a good way is to test the coolant for combustion gasses, a simple and effective way of testing for contamination and helping to ID the problem, I don't think this is your problem. I am no expert but my money is on the size of the rad, I have used a lot of Evans and it will solve the boiling over problem, but you need to be aware that the overall temp will increase! NOT get lower this in your case may bring the temp up even higher, sound like your rad system is working as is the expansion bottle, just seems to be unable to keep the coolant below boiling point, are you sure you don't have a simple air lock?
Thanks Arthur, air lock could be possible.. The hoses don't get hard so I'm sure it's not the head gasket, how can I check for an airlock? Any special tricks when filling to avoid one? I've drained the system now anyway in preparation for the Evans tomorrow. Got what you say about a temp increase if its too much will have to add the second rad. So even with water it shouldn't boil at 100c if the system was pressurised properly without any trapped air?
