Normally manufacturers put in quite a safety margin on most things, They know people will overfill ( normally not dealers ) so 20mm in a crankcase is unlikely to do any harm. My son is a mechanic and had a car come in to have the brakes looked at, He was quite puzzled as they were all covered in some oil, he thought rather strange all calipers leaking. they contacted the owner and he said they were squealing so he oiled them all,
Zoinks! that level would do my head in. Its the one simple thing many dealers get wrong. I'm a 75% full sort of person, get it to 75% after the drain, run for a short while, allow to settle then top back to 75% ..easy
I am a 50% person (sitting on the fence). I have heard race engines are sometimes overfilled to compensate for the consumption during the race. Like slick, I would be shocked by that amount of overfill beyoud the max marker. Would give the seller a good telling off! Other than the increased drag in the sump, you also get pressurised sump which means in extreme cases, oil is fed into the breather and fed into the combustion chamber giving you oil burning smoke. Open the air filter housing and check for traces of oil. If you have been taking it easy, your bike should have no long term side effect from this gross negligence on the part of the dealer.
Bit of thread resurrection… this is how mine is looking after an oil change. Would you say this is in tolerance and OK, or worthy of draining some out?
This is over the max. MAybe overfilled, maybe not correctly measured. I would want to see it below the max line (50~70% up mrom min). So if it were mine, I would do something about it
What is the easiest/cleanest way of getting some out? Length of thin rubber tube in through the oil filler cap and suck some out with a syringe? Or just going via the drain bolt (though not sure how you’d drain just a little AND replace the washer without making a bloody great mess)
Yep for me too that’s over filled.To reduce the level I use the same vacuum pump as I do for bleeding brakes but a syringe and bit of tubing will do the job.
Thanks for the replies. Sorry to ask what may be a dumb question, but with the plastic tubing, where would you poke it when going in through the oil filler? Are you just trying to get it as low down (into the sump) as possible?
I have to admit have not reduced the on level with the Blade (as generally service myself) but do it with the cars all the time. The tubing just needs to go down the filler hole. Just make sure it is plenty long as if it drops off for any reason you don't want to be fishing it out!
Just reread your question, if you set up it right you only need to poke as far down as you want to drain, however it is easy enough to refill a bit if you take too much out
Makes sense, thanks. I had a look in through the filler hole and couldn’t see the oil sitting in there, only various cogs and other gubbins. But guess with a long enough bit of tube you poke down past all that stuff and into where the oil is sitting - will give it a go later!
So managed to suck a bit of oil out (probably about 100ml) using a syringe and some tubing - level is now just below the maximum line. Top tip: assuming your tubing is thin enough, go down the dipstick hole, not the filler hole - the latter I couldn't get anywhere near the oil sitting in the sump owing to all the gearbox gubbins and stuff in the way. Through the dipstick hole however it was a straight shot to the sump.
I was about to suggest the dip stick hole you will find min > max line only takes about 150ml so be carefull with future topping ups!
Me personally, after adjusting an overfill of oil. I wouldn’t bat an eyelid at that reading. I get that the dipstick is there for a reason, but it takes such a small amount to raise the level to where your reading is, it isn’t worth taking out other than for your own peace of mind.
