I don't think so Dave or if it does it must do it slowly. I haven't used it either don't even know where to buy it from? B&Q or something?
Doesn't it fling everywhere then if not? Sorry If I'm being think, but what's the point in putting expensive non fling chain lube on top of another product that's still on the chain? Granted chain cleaner cost more than paraffin for example, but in the greater scheme of things?
I have used plenty of chain cleaner in the past and tbh it just doesn't seem to take the crud off the chain as well as a paraffin rag.
Yes if you don't clean the paraffin or WD-40 off the chain after you've cleaned it then yes it does stop the chain lube from sticking to the chain as well and yes it does fling a lot more. That's why I use a water-based degreaser and then a rinse with plain ol' water afterwards before letting it dry and then applying the lube.
Makes sense mate. I've never had an issue with using chain cleaner, perhaps I clean mine more often so there's not as much gunk to get off? Each to their own.
I pretty much follow what boro said, I had posted my process in earlier post. My main reason for usin WD for cleaning is the cost difference I buy it in gallon canisters and decant into spray bottles n use that to do my gunny cleaning then use another degreaser such as muc off or similar to remove the WD residue then apply either wurth or muc off chain lube. I only tend to really clean my chain (more the sprocket buildup really) once a year or more if I am working on something in that area that could get me all messy, I run a scotoiler all the time on my bikes so it keeps up with my maintainance needs between cleans! But you are right there is no real right way or wrong way of doing it as long as it gets done is the main thing.
Took rear wheel out for new-to-me tyre fitting tomorrow, found chain really bad even though I cleaned it recently, not one link was free to move. Spent ages with a toothbrush and some chain cleaner and its better, but the chain is only totally loose in a few spots - most need a bit of effort to fully articulate. Numpty question, but should whole thing be totally free i.e. to move or does it need a load more TLC or is it goosed and needs replacement? Using MucOff chain cleaner - should try Parafin next to really soak it ?
I am no expert Al but one would imagine straight out of the box the chain would be really free and easy and every link would rotate .Looks like a new ones needed dude but remember the old saying "New chain = New Sprockets.
ShinySideUp - where do you get your 5L of WD40 from? I used to get it from work and it lasts ages. I'm no longer in that job so I've got to go and buy some now. Looked over the net and prices vary and want to be sure I aint getting a fake
Clean with paraffin. Wipe dry and coat with Wurth Dry Lube. 13000 miles in and chain has hardly stretched at all and I reckon easily good for another 13000 miles.
I tend to get it from a local motor factors, I have seen places on ebay selling for around £20 for the 5 litres as long as you stick to proper businesses you should receive legit wd40 product. (the smell is distinct on WD40) but that said I have also used penetrating fluid from a local chemical company that make/supply cleaning supply's with good success and a little cheaper than WD40 it's a little more oily n viscosity but it clings better when cleaning and it does it's job with the rusty bolts too.
I have just gone to town on my chain, paraffin cleans it up very well but doesn't evaporate so I clean off the paraffin with chain cleaner then apply 2 coats of wurf clear lube and leave overnight, nice clean chain and no fling Why use paraffin when you have chain cleaner I Here you ask, well IMO paraffin cleans up the chain better and is cheaper, the chain cleaner then last longer.
Did mine with Muc-off chain cleaner and a old tea towel. Cleaned up like new. Time taken 20 mins. Bikes only done 1500 miles though.
