Rear footpegs removed

Discussion in 'General 1000RR Discussion' started by Jamiestrada, Jun 20, 2011.

  1. Nutty Tart

    Nutty Tart Well-Known Member

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    Yup I'm with you there jamie .. It might take a couple of hours to do but it is very satisfying to sit back afterwards and think "I did that" :clap2: If a girlie like me can do it then anyone can do it :sarcastic: I recon I could do it quicker a second time now I know how .
     
  2. fisher

    fisher Active Member

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    LOL, I got them to do that as well, I enjoy a bit of spannering, but not as much as haggling with dealers
     
  3. JM1

    JM1 Active Member

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    Hmmm, the split subframe method does require a _small_ hole to be drilled in the battery box though so you can unscrew the under seat bodywork panel thing.
     
  4. abv

    abv Active Member

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    I know the screw you mean and it can be done with no drilling. IRC I had to undo one side of a flat plate linking the two seat rails and then push pull a bit but it is possible.
     
  5. dan.1moore1

    dan.1moore1 Senior Member

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    I didn't have to drill anything to split the sub frame.. Just need small bendy arms lol
     
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  6. Bats

    Bats Active Member

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    Defo sub frame split 50 mins ;)
     
  7. JM1

    JM1 Active Member

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    I know, sorry, casting my memory back, I actually did it without drilling too!
    I ended up drilling it when I replaced the aforementioned under seat panel thing.
     
  8. Nutty Tart

    Nutty Tart Well-Known Member

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    Yup me too .. no drilling to strip it ... but for ease of removal I put a couple of holes in the battery tray so its a piece of p155 to play with next time . when I get the pics up you will see I have had various bits of the back off more than once :yes4:
     
  9. Gregr

    Gregr Active Member

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    The Blade really looks better without the pillion pegs. No need to remove the tank, battery etc, just strip all the rear end plastics and the seat subframe splits with two bolts at the front to the frame and there is a bolt at the back end, take one side off at a time, remove pegs job done....easy (ish)!!
    There are some plates available from Sato Racing that bolt in place of the footpegs and allow the pillion pegs to bolted on/off when you like as the plates drop the mounting hole, they're not cheap though so I made my own.
     
  10. tandbiskits

    tandbiskits Active Member

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    :frusty:Currently in the process of removing rear pegs, spent half hour & have got absolutely nowhere!!, can`t even figure out how to get the f**king tail piece off, i have no patience & big hands. (what doesn`t help is when you still find parts of your bike not put back together properly by the effing dumbass dealer who has had it apart a couple of times)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! not happy:suicide:
     
  11. Nutty Tart

    Nutty Tart Well-Known Member

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    I can remember that feeling ... the first time I tried I gave up ... thinking I would break something

    Then I watched the alarm fitter remove the tail panels and was shocked at the brutality of it ... you have to grip it firmly and force it apart till it clears the subframe and over the seat lock ... you really would not want to do it on a cold day when the panels are less flexible .
     
  12. flatstickHRC

    flatstickHRC Active Member

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    To remove the tail plastics yo have to remove the 4 black amen head bolts from under the pillion seat

    Then get hold of the plastics at both sides and slide it back until the tabs on the undertray are unlocked.

    You will see when this happens. Then just spread the parts away from the eh rake and pop it over the metal frame one side at a time

    You have to be quite brutal with it but it won't snap. It's Pretty flexible
     
  13. dan.1moore1

    dan.1moore1 Senior Member

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    It is a horrible job . i took the hole back end of bar the battery tray. those pegs are never going back on ha ha
     
  14. Nutty Tart

    Nutty Tart Well-Known Member

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    Yur not wrong ... I've had mine stripped down 3 times now for different jobs at the back . I refitted the alarm in a better position than the genuine fitter did
    I'm a bit OCD about wiring neatness so it all got a bit involved when I put my recessed indicators in
     
  15. tandbiskits

    tandbiskits Active Member

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    Finally, i suceeded, i was waiting for the tailpiece to crack,but i got it all apart, including taking both subframes off. worst part was pulling tail piece off, did anybody else leave lock mech in place as the screws for this were a bitch, didn`t like the idea of pulling plastic over the top of this.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #35 tandbiskits, Jul 20, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2011
  16. Nutty Tart

    Nutty Tart Well-Known Member

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    Well done ... its very satisfying to know that you beat all the obstacles that Mr Honda put in your way
    to ensure you take your bike to the dealer .. :D
     
  17. JM1

    JM1 Active Member

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    You don't actually need to remove it to that extent. Just loosen one side of subframe at a time.
     
  18. tandbiskits

    tandbiskits Active Member

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    :blink:I didn`t have any allen keys ground down enuf to get inbetween the battery tray & subframe, i didn`t want to break anything . there didn`t seem to be alot of room between them. I have o.c.d when it comes to working on cars & bikes! if it takes you an hour , it will take me three.
     
  19. Normanstanley

    Normanstanley Active Member

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    Cheers JamieHRC, looks like a rainy day job!
     
  20. Mel

    Mel Active Member

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    looks so much better with the pegs off, it took us 3 hours :)
     

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