lol, it does ok here you go. Same diode layout, measures 8.5K Ohms from the centre to one side and 8.7 K Ohms across the other side. In reverse polarity I get an open circuit which is correct as diodes only work one way. Also, trying to start when removed my pump primes but doesn't turn over when I hit the start button. With the diode refitted it starts fine. In summary, if you only get a reading on one side of the diode then the other side is stuffed, which could explain why your bike turns over but won't fire. Either way you should have a reading similar to mine on both sides of the diode and nothing in reverse.
Cheers pal, much appreciated! Red in middle I get nothing on either outer pins Black in middle i get 40.12k Ohms approx on each side which is way different to yours and if I hold the meter on the pins for a few secs the figure slowly decreases. I don't suppose you checked for continuity as per the diagram above did you? P.s. sorry for hassling you on a Saturday
No worries. The diagram confirms that there should only be continouty in one direction. I used crocodile clips on my meter to attach to the diode terminals for a more accurate reading, but yours are noticeably higher. In itself still not conclusive, but certainly worth swapping over or testing on another bike.
Well today I've mainly been getting the R1 cleaned and coated ready for it winter hibernation. She is tucked up under a nice cover next to a radiator in the garage Anyway, I did manage to remove the datatool alarm which was actually damn easy as it just plugs into a socket under the tank. I then decided to order a new diode from partzilla in the US. £9.50 delivered compared to £30 delivered from Fowlers in the UK which seems insane that it is cheaper coming all the way from the US Also did a bit of cleaning on it to satisfy my OCD. If nothing else, it will be the cleanest non running blade in the country!
There must be a member near you with a bike who could pop over and let you try their diode to test - I would put a fresh post up with clear request in title saying where you are etc.
I've ordered one now so I'll wait for it to arrive mate. I'm still not certain if it even is faulty as it works only in one direction and the readings are both about the same on the two outer pins. The only grey area is the readings which seem rather high, the manual states there should be low reading.
Is it possible that you are using fused leads on your meter giving a higher resistance? Just a thought.
My multimeter has a diode test function on it, its just a shame that the manual does not give you an indication of the values to expect.
An update for anyone interested: I tested the for power at the coil connections and there is none, so I am not getting a spark. Here is what I have tested and eliminated so far: - All relays tested and fine inc starter relay - all fuses test inc main 30a and FI fuse by positive on battery - tested side stand switch - tested neutral switch - tested clutch switch - start/stop switch checked - crankshaft position sensor checked - camshaft position tester checked - Datatool alarm removed just in case - HISS seems fine, light goes off after 2 secs to indicate key read - Fuel pump primes - BAS checked and fine There are still a couple of tests left to carry out which involves checking for continuity from ECU to various bits to ensure no broken wires when I get time.
Oh, I also removed the rear pegs by splitting the subframe. Took 15 mins with fairing off for anyone thinking of doing it.
I'm interested to see what happens when the new diode arrives . It could be that one side provides power for the coils.
Well some progress, perhaps. I bridged the DTC plug under the seat to read the MIL codes as due to my lack of knowledge I thought the MIL light would flash if any errors. Then I realised you had to bridge the plug to read the errors. I got error 34 which relates to the EGCV. I exposed the servo/pulley and it was in the wrong position, so i turned it back to it normal position. The good bit, when I turned the ignition off and on again I noticed a new sound which is coming from the fuel injector rail. I assume it is priming or something along the lines. The exhaust servo also moved which I assume means it is working. Searching like mad I found a thread that mentioned that if the cable was not removed carefully then it can trip the ECU. This is perhaps why when I bridged the DTC connector it reset the ECU or cleared the fault enabling the fuel injector rail to power on?? The exhaust was off the bike when I got it so the cable could well have been ripped out. I'm still not getting power at the coil connector but it is certainly another step forward. Look forward to getting the diode to see if it is another piece of the jigsaw or just a red herring.
Are you looking for a front mud guard at all? I have a Winning Red one that's the exact same colour as your bike from an 08.
Well it runs but it has a worrying rattle/tapping noise which I need to look at. It will keep me busy I guess!
Here is the noise if anyone has any suggestions. The noise increases with revs, none at idle and same when put in gear
