Cheers for the help mate. Yes fuel pump is fine when supplied with 12v. As for filling my ignition with wd40 lol….. never heard of that but willingly try anything to resolve this.
Sounds like you're going to have to start again on the troubleshooting from the beginning. Did you pull the fuses and relays and check them off the bike with a meter?
Cheers for the reply. Exactly as you said. Start again. I’ve missed something. Honesty works with trying to get this sorted as to what I have or haven’t done. Fuses were checked in position for continuity across the visible top pins. Two alongside the battery and all within the fuse box up front. Relays were removed and supplied with 12V where continuity was found across the remaining pins. Thank you for any ideas and if I’m testing incorrectly please put me right. I’m obviously wrong about something I’ve done. Cheers
You're doing the correct check at the relays and fuses. Are you sure you've coded the key correctly for the spare ECU? Doesn't sound right that you now don't have a HISS light? What you don't want to happen is the ECU to be the correct root cause but you dismiss it because the HISS isn't being satisfied. Aren't the HISS light and FI light meant to come on with the key turned initially and then extinguish when the fuel pump has finished priming and the HISS aerial detects the key? Could you have a faulty HISS aerial? Have you con checked all the wires between the fuel pump and the relay/ECU? Have you double checked all the earth's? Have you triple checked the kill switch at the connector? With a spare ECU in hand you have everything you need to diagnose this so don't lose faith!
Is your spare ECU UK spec or US? Don't think the US models have HISS? I think the HISS is disabled on US ECUS and that might stop it illuminating.
Genuine thank you for your input and questions. The ECU was purchased through a reputable specialist but I will definitely be speaking to them again in the morning. My ECU arrived on Friday whilst I was at work. Before I bought the ECU I contacted them twice over a he phone where they asked about my test results and I felt confident in their responses. I was aware of the US/UK discrepancy but didn’t think it would come into play whereas it might possibly have now. The antenna ring was a consideration and will be checked today. As for the testing, I proved my testing again and again but will openly admit that after being all over the bike I was getting complacent in my expectations at every test. I think it’s bitten me on the arse now if you understand. As for the kill switch, this was my go to point initially as I was aware of its potential for failing and tested it many times. I am now aware that my testing is faulty so need to smarten up and find what I’m overlooking. The earth connections and plugs all seem perfect. The wiring loom is fully intact and only has a suspicious look where I have peeled back the black tape over the yellow connectors. Today I will start with the antenna, soak the ignition switch as has been suggested and if no luck there, I’ll slowly go over the bike again using the manual as my guide. I might scribble my test process down from start to finish and post it here so people can advise if they want. The manual has me going from chapter to chapter and is a ball ache. Once again, thank you all for trying to help me out. Wes
The ignition barrel is only a switch the same as the kill switch, should be able to disconnect a connector and check continuity across 2 pins in the same way you will the kill switch.
No luck with retesting. I ended up with the same results that took me to testing the ECU which actually gave the same readings as my old ECU. So I obviously keep going down the same rabbit hole and and the results are the same. I did have an issue with the BAS though. Three cables,.( Now I’m typing this I’m suspicious)…. Testing this is a pain as you’re supposed to have a special bit of Honda kit to do so. Anyway what I did was link the outer two together to bypass it. Hope that was right? Still no luck anyway. I understand I needed to reset key during testing this. What I did next was skip to next step as if it had “ passed” the previous test and traced the cables back into the loom. I was reluctant to do this as the loom was in perfect condition. I did however find what I can only assume are “factory” splices and for a second I thought I heard the pump prime. My ignition was on and I’m almost positive I heard it. Unfortunately the radio was on and no matter how I tried I couldn’t replicate the possible prime. I eventually gave up and returned to testing where I ended back as I said with the same error at the ECU. I’m going to contact the people who I bought the ECU from tomorrow and see where we go from there. I would ask if someone could have a look at the previous posts in here regarding the pin out configuration for testing the ECU. I think it was agreed in the end using the drawing and my plug top images. Cheers for any advice or help. It’s appreciated. Just read through this before posting and it sounds a mess. It was. Still is. I won’t give in though. Cheers again !
As we are looking at the connectors, the top left male pins on the ECU in the plugs are number 1 and they count across left to right across the top then left to right on the bottom. In the female end as you're looking at them it will be top right that's number 1 and count right to left.
I know nothing, but if there's a splice and wiggling may have got you a fuel prime it does sound as if there might be a problem there.
I actually ran to the door of my garage and screamed “YES”…… went in and told the Mrs and then it all fell apart. Returned to the garage 3 mins later and my heart sank. It would not do it again. Tried everything, every cable but nothing. Must of spent an hour on a few inches of loom. Gave in and went back to manual. Didn’t know if it was just wishful thinking. I’ll keep going and thank you everyone for your inputs. Cheers
If you suspect a broken wire @Wes within the loom I would be disconnecting the plugs at both ends and doing a continuity check from each end of the cores that run through that section.
Thanks for asking Boothman. Bit of a dead end really. I understand my drawing, I understand the sequences and have proved everything multiple times. I didn’t want to bore people here with my problem so have just kept at it. Seeing as I’m here there I’d like to ask about my HISS. I considered the possibility I was trying to circumnavigate around a possible issue with it. I had to swap the small chip in my key to pair with the ECU I swapped out and wondered whether it was actually “ seeing” my key. What I did was remove the antenna ring around the ignition switch. With this removed, my bike still behaved in exactly the same way as when it was installed. By that I mean that the ignition when turned on still illuminated the dash, the needle swept across and I could see my tail light on. Indicator switch acknowledged and horn worked, and bike still cranked over. Still missing obviously, was the prime. I’m not sure if I can test this without a Honda test loom. Could anyone give me pointers in this area as I can’t find out exactly what I should expect having removed the antenna. My phantom prime last weekend still bugs me. Did I hear it or didn’t I ? Shouldn’t have had radio on so loud !! Tomorrow will see me disappearing up the garage again, manual in one hand coffee in the other. I know there are really only a few steps to prove one thing or another but it’s just not happening. I’m going to prove my bank angle as although I have tested the relay, heard it make and proved the wiring, my shorting it out was a pain and I’d like to repeat the test. I’ll probably have another look deeper into the loom but I don’t like cutting into it really. The loom is visually perfect from the outside and although I will try and return it to its original state, a keen eye would spot that someone had been in there. As I’ve said before, I’ll keep going, I don’t have a choice and mores to the point, I want my pride and joy working again. Cheers for reading. Wes.
Hiss light will go out when the chip is detected. Have you looked at the fuel pump relay, and removed it to strap out the contract side of the base to false feed the pump?
Cheers for the reply thank you. I have just found the HISS section in the manual so will use that regarding my last post. Broadie, cheers for your help…. I have voltage at the relay and have proved the relay by putting 12v across it and getting continuity from the remaining pins. I did consider and you’re right, about shorting it out to see if it would prime but seeing as I’ve already proved the cables from the relay to the tank connection it just seemed like no point. I’ve already fed the other side of the connection to the tank and she primes. I probably should have tried but that wouldn’t have proved why I wasn’t getting it to prime as it should. I’ll do it tomorrow just to satisfy you and now me because you now have me wondering. Thanks all for every bit of help you can offer. Genuinely appreciated.
Ps….. I get no HISS light when I turn on the ignition. It does it’s parked up intermittent flash but nothing when I put the key in.
So you have 2 terminals that have a voltage across them for a short time when you switch the ignition on?
