I have Chinese rear sets and like I said you can only push the stand in halfway otherwise it bends the gear shift rod,I think the best thing to do is ask Andy at demon tweeks if it can be used with Giles rear sets.
I have an Envy Bike stand which is really the same as what you are buying, and I have gilles VCR rearsets fitted and they did foul the shift rod, so I made up some thinner aluminium spacers and now it clears the stand fine.
Sinewave you can say that again!. For those that might not be aware, you need to replace one of the engine mounting nuts. When fitted it sticks out a country mile!, I might paint mine black to make is less noticable. The Blade is quite front heavy so the first time you set up the front doesn't even leave the ground!. Top tip is to stick a brick under the front tyre when in the drop position then tighten, this helps the bike being lifted in a more level position. BTW the instructions are gash! Also (dunno if you had the same problem Sinewave) but could not get the pins close enough to get them to slide in nice an easy. The pins need to be about 1.5mm closer, this was sorted out with my dremel and my biggest metal drill bit. Also another tip is to mark the pins with paint so you know they are fully inserted! Apart from that a top bit of kit!. (Apologies for the hanging state of my Blade but in this weather can be arsed to wash it). Also you get decent sized boxes that will keep the kids amused for ages.
and i thought this stand just fitted straight onto the blade with the attachment?? all this talk of replacing engine mounts and drilling bits makes me really wary about buying summat thats suppoused to be bike specifit ( with the added attachment ) may just be easier with a front stand
You've got a point there but to unload the front and rear suspension you probs need an Abba and a headstock stand. Abbas ( and the front stand to a lesser effect) need specific pins so the costs can be a lot more. Also you have the advantage of being able to move the Blade around whilst on the stand, really handy in confined spaces. My only gripe is that mounting nut, tis a little fugly!
ive got a rear stand which takes off the load from the rear shock View attachment 16262 plus i do ger in the garage and move me bike around so she aint sat on the same part of the tyre n the forecast this week is dry so will ger a run out so no need to worry about the front shocks really. ive got plenty of space in the garage so i can walk round the bike easily and do wotever i need to do..... hhmmm ill sleep on it tonight and decide
For those that might not be aware, you need to replace one of the engine mounting nuts. When fitted it sticks out a country mile!, I might paint mine black to make is less noticable. The Blade is quite front heavy so the first time you set up the front doesn't even leave the ground!. Top tip is to stick a brick under the front tyre when in the drop position then tighten, this helps the bike being lifted in a more level position. BTW the instructions are gash! Also (dunno if you had the same problem Sinewave) but could not get the pins close enough to get them to slide in nice an easy. The pins need to be about 1.5mm closer, this was sorted out with my dremel and my biggest metal drill bit Sent payment to Andy on Friday, may be getting a refund on Monday, don't want engine mounting nuts sticking out nor do I want to be taking a drill to anything, thought the mounting plate was CBR specific ?
Don't let my comment put you off!. It's only the mounting plate you 'might' need to adjust. Like I said it took a few minutes to shave the lower groove to allow the pin to mount higher. I have a 2009 it might be OK for later models. Once set up it's an awesome bit of kit, my neighbours were even impressed!
So theres nowt to adjust / change / cut / drill or wotever on the bike itself????? just the brackets mounting on the stand, may need to be adjusted in sum way or shape but then again msy nit depending in the model??
Mine fitted OK with no modifications. I found greasing the pins helped them insert in to the frame better. The trick is in the initial setup of the Plate angle which holds the Pins, if this aint bob on you have trouble inserting in to the Frame. Also you need to hold the Bike on a vertical plane which is parallel with the Warrior Lift other wise again it's tight getting it in. If it wasn't a good fit then it'd wobble about and the bike would slump more to the right and then Peeps would complain about that instead. Agree the destructions could be clearer but anyone with half a brain will work it out I'm sure.
Yep that's right no drilling the bike!, just the mounting bracket needed a little 'adjusting'. The top pin is fixed but the bottom can be moved vertically. My problem was I could not move the lower pin high enough (ie get the pins closer together) to allow the pins to slide easily into the bike frame. All I did was machine the lower groove by an extra 1.5mm. The metal was quite hard but nothing my trusty dremel and a HSS drill bit couldn't manage. I was probably unlucky, the mount will probably be ok for 99% of peeps.
Not as such, just had to remove the nut from it and replace with the specialist nut and sleeve shown in the above photo by Slick. The engine bolt/pin it's self stays put so a 30 second job on a 2012 Blade. The instructions do state though that some bikes may have the OEM Nut & Bolt put in the other way round so you'd have to remove and flip around but that may be referring to other manufacturers bikes as I doubt Honda would assemble Bikes ad hok so to speak with some bolts going left to right and others right to left! In this case the Nut that needs replacing is on the LHS of the bike.
so just to get this straight for the ejits amongst us ( namely me) doyou have to have that fugly sleeve/bolt sticking out the side of your bike ? or can this be removed when the stand is not in use and how much of a ball ache is it having to mess around with it all the time, mine gets a wash and chain lube after every ride how much is it going to peeve me having to pee about with this all the time ?
I guess you can do that as it's only a thirty second job. You just need a torque wrench handy each time. The only thing I'd worry about is wear on the thread and increasing your risk of cross threading. TBH it doesn't get in the way and I 've already stopped noticing it
Sounds like you would have to. If you don't like the look of the replacement nit/sleeve kinda defeats the object of the stand keep putting it on and off? Meant to be easy and convenient?
Nope, it's there all the time. You may feel it as you're riding and you'll almost certainly have it poking into your leg at every set of traffic lights.
