Thanks blackness and arthur Sorry to be a pain but I have a couple more questions... I like to understand it all be for doing it lol I have a arrow exhaust and don't think I get any popin? Will this effect the emissions as I have a mot coming up soon? What's the main achievement to removing this? Cheers guys
Extended the lead from hid unit to loom/connector. Will allow me to hide it out the way. Will have to see if I can get a better connector to use rather than just pushing spade connectors in like the supplied lead.
Cheers Nick. Am thinking more about these (2pcs H7 Headlight Bulb Ceramic Socket Plug Connector Wiring Harness New | eBay) as it is just the lead to the original connector that I wanted to extend. May even go for the H4 variety like these and just have 2 wires connected as the original connector can have 3 pins (2x H4 9003 Headlight Bulb Ceramic Socket Plug Connector Wiring Harness | eBay)
Fitted HIDs to both lights after first removing the Pair Air bottle. Also changed the flush fit indicators on the front for Oxford Eyeshot Nanos, but only after removing the old wiring and replacing with proper connectors, a bit no-one will see but it made me happier. Also fitted mirror extenders to hopefully improve vision, but not sure about the aesthetics. Also fitted an LED bulb to the running light Forgot to take pics of rh side HID ballast, but this is the LH one. Locations basically copied from Gilesy's pics, a very helpful chap, but one whom my wife is not impressed with I took some photos of what could be seen with the original bulbs so hopefully tomorrow I can take the same photos with the HIDs to provide a comparison. Busy days ahead for bike bits as have Brembos to fit to front, CRF MC to fit to rear, and bleed brakes and clutch Also need to clean the chain and sprockets.
Oops sorry mate. Barking up the wrong tree as usual. Might get a pair of these..... 2pcs H7 Headlight Bulb Ceramic Socket Plug Connector Wiring Harness New | eBay .... myself. Thank for the heads-up. You'd think it would be easy to hide a couple of small boxes on a large capacity bike but I'm now looking at stowing it all under the pillion seat and running all the leads to the front. BTW, are you going for HID bulbs or projectors? Nick.
I did the HID conversion last year as same Gilesy's pics, it works well and looks awesome, I then bought another kit for the main beam, it didnt work well at all, the beam was allover, unless someone mas mastered it I wouldnt recommend doing the main beam.
I did the HiD conversion when I first bought my blade, both main and dipped lights. I put the electronics boxes in the nose cone between the headlight housings and the ballasts behind the screen supports. It means that I can remove the nose fairing complete by unplugging the main loom connector near the fuses, the indicators and unbolting the two main stay bolts. It takes less than 10 minutes and makes working on the front end of the bike so much easier. In fact I have the nose cone on my bedside table as the bike is in bits awaiting the forks..
Well just got it back together, Full Micron race system, New Ohlins rear shock, Oil and filter, Coolant change.
I took all ur advice... Removed PAIR system but when I remove the two screws from reed valves will they fall into cam cover? The reeds I mean?? Also can I remove the air pump thing which one of the pipes goes to rear of throttle bodies?
I did both too but I used an 'anti-dazzle' H7R bulb in the 'dip' and it threw exactly the same (trapezoidal? ) pattern as the OEM bulb. Which was nice. If you had a problem with the main beam you could have just been unlucky as I recon quality control ain't up to snuff in some of those Far Eastern factories. I took a lot of trouble getting the aim of both exactly right but once they were set they were literally brilliant. It's only when, at night, you see a car with what looks like yellow halogen headlights approaching that you're reminded how good HIDs are.
What I did with my pair valves was changed them over and linked the two of them together with the short hose. I did read on here somewhere that with the pair valves working as they should you get a crackle from the exhaust on over-run. But after doing mine I get a real good crackle and pop from the zorst when going down the box and engine braking.. I love it.. Of course I might have got that first sentence all wrong and it's after you do the mod...possibly
Thanks for you're reply, I don't have a crackle or pop now so will see if I do... As for swapping them over that seems a really good idea!!! Thanks, unless anyone knows a reason not to do that then you just saved me £25!! Cheers
Hi Len, I Prob did not make myself clear so my fault, I don't mind taking some blame , but when I said "Pull pipes off, block holes, remove pipes and valve, block hole that pipe went to in air box, done. " I should have said, if NOT removing the reed covers block the holes, IF your removing the reed covers take care as the bolts like to shear off, if you do not blank them off with alloy plates that in my case I cut to fit or if you buy the block off plates. If you leave the reed covers off you must use one of the methods to seal off the reeds or they will just blow out the cover, you can leave the reeds in the cover and just cut an alloy plate or just block the holes in the old reed covers, if you get me..lol. Anyway think Tom has sorted it with that idea....