I had a bash around my Worcester loop. Bit cold, but great to get out for a bit of a refresher course with DRY roads. Got home and the OCD kicked in so had to do some serious cleaning:
Ok, it may not be a Blade but I don't own one anymore. Part of my Winter Mods L74 Quick release rear wheel set up. HEL Dry Break brake lines HPK Discs. Maxton Shock and fork cartridge kit. Brembo RCS M/C
A great finish, NBB. I'm interested in this. I've just done some serious Googling and found a range of products vary from cheap (immediately disregarded) to outsourced technicians. Could you give me, and probably others, the heads-up on a recommended product/process? Cheers!
I’m a Detailer by trade, so we use our own products that we’ve had developed. As the fairings are plastic, the generation of heat in the correction process needs to be managed or the paint will scorch or strike through dependant on finish. The reds on the fairings are direct gloss, with the pearls being base coat and lacquer. A summary of items used. Clay bar Autoshine Ferrex (iron remover) Autoshine maximus (neutral wash) Autoshine Gluta (tar & glue remover) Rupes Ibrid Nano (medium and soft heads) Menzerna 400 heavy cut (don’t be scared by the label) Menzerna 3/800 super finish plus IPA or any type of panel wipe Autoshine Krypton5 ceramic coating First of all before any correction work begins, the bodywork needs to be decontaminated. 1. Pre rinse 2. Wash using maximus, then clay using some quick Detailer a slip solution. 3. Rinse 4. Spray iron remover on wheels and lower fairings. You will get iron fallout on the lower fairings from the brake dust, although not much. 5. Rinse again. 6. Remove any tar spotting using a micro fibre and tar remover 7. IPA wipe down to remove any oils left behind 8. Using the Ibrid and medium pad, put a pea size drop of the Menzerna 400 onto the pad and work round each panel in a # motion overlapping each pass by 50% each time. Remove polish using a new microfibre cloth. 9. Once completed, use the steps in 8 using the soft head and Menzerna 3/800 and a clean microfibre. 10. IPA wipe down of all panels worked on. 11. Apply ceramic coating a panel at a time. A foam applicator block and some of the wifes make up remover pads will be okay for this. Allow the ceramic to start to cure, approx 5-8mins depending on temperature. Longer if it’s colder. Then buff to a shine with a clean microfibre cloth. Allow to fully cure for 24 hours once all panels completed. That’s a quick overview of what’s needed but happy to help if there’s more questions. A couple of videos of our work to show a bit more of the process. Link to our shop so you can browse our products. http://autoshinecarcare.co.uk/
Thanks, NBB, for such a 'detailed' reply. That's some serious cleaning kit I'm going to invest invest in, but spread across 3 bikes it's something I see as well worthwhile. This will relegate the 'Turtle Wax' (and I hear you shuddering) to my very basic car. Will purchase from your Autoshine link later in the day. This is an excellent example of the 1000rr forum being of benefit to all. Cheers!
Most products from reputable brands are fine but they’re designed for reapplication at set intervals and don’t always offer great protection. Advantages of ceramic coatings are the maintenance required once applied is minimal. Safe wash, microfibre towel dry and done. No need to reapply ceramic. Also, ceramic coating can be applied to all non moving metal parts, frame, swing arm, fork legs/stanchions, disc centres, calipers etc. You can also apply it to glass and non painted plastics. We obviously rate our brand as we’ve developed it and have experience of 25+ years in car detailing. Along the way, We have trained Rolls Royce and McLaren in paint preparation and protection. What we’ve tried to do with our brand, being typical Yorkshire men, is provide an excellent product and value for money. Other brands that we know of and can vouch for the quality as we know the brand owners on a personal level are; Poorboy's DoDo Juice Ceramic Pro Gtechniq Gyeon A couple of machines at great prices for the home/hobbyists; http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...-12e-mini-dual-action-polisher/prod_1565.html DA polisher, great for tight spaces and motorcycle fairings. Safe to use for the beginner. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/shinemate-ep803-rotary-polisher-kit/prod_1651.html Rotary polisher with everything you’d need. We use one of these also. You need to watch your speed with one of these, especially on the plastics. A great tool though. Tim at cleanyourcar is a good source of info too and is always willing to guide and assist where he can.
Thanks also to NBB. I come from the day of the old 'pink' Simoniz Speed Wax in the gold tin. With advances in technology, cleaning and paint preservation has become a science. I now see there's more to this than just grabbing a product off a shelf at Halfords.
Another fine example of man-faffing & product collecting mania All us lasses need is a good Chamois & hot soapy water.....as is admirably demonstrated here....
Bought more titanium bolts (dam you @sps170373) for getting me started on them, just got to get the new discs and pads now
Took my MV to RRP (http://www.roadandraceperformance.co.uk/default.aspx) for suspension tune after being pleased with the way they sorted my Blade. The bike was a totally different machine when I rode it home. A very worthy investment for 42 quid!
