I had been very suspicious of quoted performance gains/improvements with remapping. Had my RR4 done earlier this week and am suspicious no more. Friggin' amazing transformation - much more so than doing the old plugs, points and tappets. (Sorry if the younger guys don't know about them! ) The shame is that the dyno cost is a tad expensive, but it's a case of the ends justify the means.
I am running a decat link pipe and arrow can, wideband O2 sensor using ftecu active tune which tunes the bike on the move, also can flash the bike from my laptop using the ftecu flash kit to move some of the eu emissions rubbish, not cheap but bike is smooth and goes well The standard bikes are not smooth in power mode 1 for sure, mine is though
Nigel, It wasn't for "Performance gains" as you put it was for rideability. If you have ever ridden a 2009 to 2014 R1 they are lumpy as hell. After the flash it really has transformed the bike into a very smooth bike. I am glad youre happy with your bike.
I suspect the learning curve for that and, say, Woolwich, might be a bit much for us older guys. For one who is reasonably computer literate, is the software 'reasonably' easy to grasp? I've read of a few on here doing their own. And most owners will agree that there's nothing better than being in charge of your own servicing/tuning!
I think if you are racing or a frequent trackdayer in the uk and euro trips then self mapping could be beneficial as you can map to the local conditions or Country for your trip. If, like me you are a UK road rider then do it once on the Dyno then you are sorted. But if you like tinkering with stuff like that then go buy the kit and have a play.
Nup, never ridden an R1. To be embarrassingly truthful, the last Yamaha I rode was an XS650 back in 1971! Looked like this: Totally understand about the 'rideability' factor. My reference to 'performance gains' was a sly shot at those who boast of gaining 500 bhp at the rear wheel, when in fact they might have gained 5!
Well I am not a youngster Nigel, the big Six O getting closer, (to damn close) I bought my first PC when my kids were 2 and 5 as I didn't want them to have a PC dumb dad as they got older lol, it's all just plug and play anyway these days. So not difficult, fit, download and upgrade, youtube is full of explanations of how to use most software too.
So after a lot of consideration(more like following my heart then anything else) I went on a test ride on this R1 and I just couldn’t come home empty handed. I love the color scheme...the ride was a pleasure...and I didn’t have any problem with reaching the floor(I one legged it obviously) except taking it of the kickstand...oh that was a pain as I can’t rich both sides properly all in all I’m happy and I can’t wait for them to finish with the pampering so they can hand it to me.
Does it come with the Akra slip-on as standard ? A real outstanding looking bike - that will look good in any company parked next to anything. I hope you get used to the taller size than what you are used to - you probably will. I had an XT660 that was tall for me. Tip-toed the thing around, and bounced the front suspension a lot to reverse out of parking spaces - but managed all right. Quite a brave decision - put the doubts aside and turn up with an R1 in 60th Anniversary colours ! no messing about ! Good luck !
Yes the 60th anniversary edition comes with akra slip-on as standard but to be fair I need to find some cheap link pipes as it still has the CAT and it doesn’t sound loud at all with that on..also I’m used to my racefit so yeah need to make it louder. Yeah I thought about it for soo long and just had to do it..when I found this one...loved it(yellow is my favourite color).It costed a pretty penny tho. That reminds me that I need to call and inform steve jordan motorcycles that I will bring an R1 instead of the CBR for a reflash and suspension setup.
Yeah they are not cheap second hand, the yellow peril being the worst for taking your cash, but they are fun to ride, get it on track if you can, best place to enjoy it fully rag it safely
I'll try to take it to the track ASAP, any chance you could help me with a small issue? ..Basically since you seem to have had the R1 for longer..might have gonne through this .. any reason why the link pipes seem to cost like 600? ffs..thats more then a slip on..it seems a lot just to be able to delete the CAT.
depends on who's you buy i guess, I went the arrow route, SS link and Titanium Indy can, not as pricey as some but works well and sounds loud unless prices have shot up since mine, like the bikes seem to have? mine was around £580 if i remember correctly, includes Titanium Can, SS link, baffle (if needed for track) and all fittings
That is just weird...well I don't feel like getting a new can and If I were it would be a Racefit...and a god damn link pipe seems to be 600-750 ..I just can't believe it..its outrageous..
They all seam to have gone up I have just cancelled the acropovic I had coming for the sp £1100 for 1bhp at 12k revs just not worth it....
I know...I mean If the bike had a stock can I would jump and get a racefit..for 750 you get the can and link pipes...but It feels like its a shame just spending money when I already have akra..actually considering selling the akra as it seems like that can alone costs between 550-700 for the R1..and putting money towards the racefit..but I'll cry when track time comes.
As the Akra slip on is designed to fit the stock bike, pretty much any brand of R1 de-cat link pipe will fit. I bought a cheap steel link pipe second hand to try, I think it cost me £100 and I made that back when I bought a 2nd hand Termi titanium link pipe and end can. Be warned, when you decat the R1 it is loud and won't get you on many UK tracks unless you baffle it and then you will lose a lot of top end, the crossplane crank engines do not like any baffles. Track day regulars go with Seton systems which are designed in conjunction with a bespoke flash and quite £ but much quieter. If you just want a bit more noise on your Akra then wire open the exhaust valve. If you do end up with a link pipe etc and do flash the bike (ideally you should) then you can't just put the stock system back on for tracks as you will melt the cat.
